Aqua Rite = Amperage

[JasonLion]

Low amps could be caused by calcium scaling or by an aging cell that is almost worn out. Do a visual inspection of the cell plates. If there is any white chalky residue on the plates you have calcium scaling and need to clean the cell. If the plates look clean but the corners are worn away on some of the plates then the cell is aging and probably needs to be replaced.

[waste]

I agree with the advice given so far

I'd just like to welcome both Vicar8 and Jason to the forum!! (Jason, I know you tried to join a few years ago and couldn't - I'm glad you can now be a part of the Pool Forum

[vicar8]

Thank you for the welcome.

I am still unclear about the volt and amp readings and what they should be.

Should you clean the cell as soon as you note the lower than normal range amp reading? Is chlorine being produced when the reading is low? Is it enough to keep the pool properly chlorinated? Raising the setting to 100 does not seem to impact the amp reading. Is the amp reading meant to guide you as to when to increase the output?

Is a high volt reading, out of the normal range, something to be concerned with and have to do something to correct it?

Sorry if I am overworking this.

[tonyl]

Vicar8, welcome to the forum.

I also have an Aquarite SWG that's 8 years old and I'm on the original cell.

Based on my experience, the lower the amp draw, the lower the salt level. Since you indicated your unit is new, I would call the customer service number on the inside of your control box. 3.21 amps is very low for 3500 salt level and warm water. Some Ting Wong.

Also, the unit operates on 100 minute cycles and the output dial is a direct percentage run time. In other words, if your output dial is 60%, you will generate for 60 minutes, then rest for the next 40. When you dialed your output to 60 and showed no amp draw, your % run time for that cycle had elapsed and were resting. Hope this helps.

[vicar8]

A Hayward rep claims my model uses lower amps and all I need to do is add a little phosphate lowering stuff. I am doubtful since the Hayward web page doesn't have anything about another model similar to mine.
Does anyone out there know if he is telling me the truth?

[mas985]

I can give you a few data points that I have logged in the past. I have a T-15-Cell.

87 degrees, 3000 ppm salt, 26 volts, 6.30 amps.
100 degrees, 3000 ppm salt, 25 volts, 7.2 amps.

So at 90 deg, 3500 ppm, the amps should be higher than 7.

What cell are you using?

[tonyl]

I have a T-15-Cell currently at 24.2V and 6.4A. Salt is 3500 and 72 degrees.

Like mas985, I'd like to know what cell you're using.

I've used phosphate lowering stuff twice over the last 8 years when phosphates got to 3500+. Basically had an algae bloom with the only evidence being no chlorine residual and that condition kept coming back over a month even though I had shocked repeatedly.

I didn't have time to keep shocking so it worked for me but that's a rare condition. I'll almost bet if you shocked your pool HARD you'll be back in business.

Hope this helps, Tony

[vicar8]

Apparently he(the Rep) was. It has all been a terrible mis-communication. Each of the Aqua-rite models has different proper operating specs. My T-3 ranges are 1.30-3.91 amps and 23.8-28volts.
The Hayward and Goldline manuals really need improvement explaining spec ranges for each product and what they mean as well. All the diagnostic numbers should be fully explained.

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Be aware that specs depend on which model you have. A T-15 has different specs vs. the T-3.

I finally cut through their mis-information and poorly written manual. My system is a T-3 and is working quite well.

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Bottom line.... Hayward really needs to revise their manuals to avoid all the confusion they and untrained dealers lacking knowledge cause.

They appear to have a good product.