Finding small tears can be a dog depending on the liner pattern. Several years ago I developed a leak that I ultimately found at the deep end where the floor blends into the wall. Three small slits. Have no idea how they got there. Could not spot them from the surface initially but once I found them I could identify them.
For the bucket test you put some water in a bucket or a pan or something you can fill with a few inches of water. You want it riding low in the pool water so you don't disturb air currents and tie it so it stays in the middle somewhere. Measure that water level and the pool level accurately and see if there is a difference after some period of time. Last year I chased what I thought was a leak again. Almost an inch a day at the worst. Later stopped. I attributed it to relatively warm water and cold nights and low relative humidity. Drove me nuts for nothing. You have a different case in that you see dampness.
For dye I have some fluorescent red dye tablets that are used for stream tracing or similar applications. You can probably find dye markers at a dive shop and one should be all you would ever need. Also you could boil raw beets and use the juice. A lot cheaper than food dye. I use a small garden sprayer with a long piece of auto vacuum hose jury rigged to the sprayer nozzle with silicone seal and the hose is taped to a 10' piece of 1/2" PVC pipe. Lets me reach the depths. You have to go real slow so as not to disturbe the water and let out little squirts of the dye. If you get within a couple inches of the leak you should see the dye sucked in. In preparation for patching find yourself a can of Boxer-100 vinyl cement. Most pool stores should have it. This is a slow acting cement and won't curl the patch on the way to the bottom. A lot of cements are so aggressive the patch starts curling immediately and makes placing it difficult. If you can do it with your hands it's a lot easier. Otherwise I have a technique I used at the deep end that worked well. More on that later if needed.
Al
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