Courtney,
Where in S. Lousiana are you? I'm up near Shreveport, and my pool is in full sun all day with similar temps and humidity conditions as yours. I have found over the years that keeping my CYA at 70-80 significantly drops my chlorine demand.....I do have to keep a range of 5-10 ppm, but I can do that by dosing toward the high end with bleach and then dosing again about 3 days later, give or take a day....so I only have to make additions a couple of times a week unless something happens that requires me to shock it. I usually keep trichlor in my feeder with the feeder turned to the absolute minimum flow (just to keep SOME chlorine going in daily--that alone only keeps my Cl level at about 1.5-2, and I use bleach as the primary chlorine source and for shocking). As CarlD pointed out,your pool right now is ideal for trichlor tab use, and you probably could get away with using primarily the tabs for the rest of this swim season (ours goes 'til late September, and I presume yours does, too). It will lower your pH, and, although I can't explain the chemistry behind it, may go a long way toward solving your TA problems. You wouldn't need it to lower very much--120-150 works just fine in a trichlor pool. Do you have an inline feeder, or can you get a floater that allows you to dial the flow rate?
In order to determine whether the brown stuff in the pool is dirt or algae, test your Cl at night after the sun is down, then test again in the morning before the sun hits the pool. If you're losing more than 1-2 ppm in chlorine, then it's algae and you need to maintain the shock level in your pool for a little longer. If not, then it's most likely dirt that is settling, and vacuuming to waste or brushing the pool to keep it stirred up in the water so the filter can help get it out are your two best options.
Janet
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