We have NO idea what "Chlorine is ideal" means. If you are using an OTO drop kit you may have a scale that indicates 1.5-2 is "ideal" and 3 is "high". This is terribly wrong for most pools.

If you don't have a FAS-DPD test kit, you can have a pool store test a sample. They'll then tell you that you need $100-$200 worth of chemicals, especially calcium (useless in an above-ground vinyl pool). Tell them you have to check what you have at home....

What we need to see is:
FC (free chlorine)
CC (Combined chloramines) or TC (Total Chlorine)--either is fine TC= FC + CC so you can figure it out.
CYA (Stabilizer or Cyanuric Acid)

Hardness is a waste of time unless it's high,
metal contents can be useful.

Your pH of 7.6 is actually perfect. Don't mess with it.

TECHNICALLY, your alkalinity is a tad high, but in a vinyl pool you shouldn't have to worry until it hits 200ppm--so don't worry about it.

But the FC, CC and CYA numbers are what we need.

The BEST would be FC positive, CC=0 and CYA at a level where the FC is effective.

I suspect you still have algae if you have a greenish tinge to the water. Depending on your CYA number you'll need to add chlorine to bring it to that CYA's shocking number. Look at Ben's Best Guess table to see the ratios.