Hi Carl,
My CYA is closer to 80ppm. I have a SWG and 80 is the high side of recommended. I typically keep it in between 60-80ppm and I keep my chlorine around 1-1.5.
Kevin
Hi Carl,
My CYA is closer to 80ppm. I have a SWG and 80 is the high side of recommended. I typically keep it in between 60-80ppm and I keep my chlorine around 1-1.5.
Kevin
So with an SWG and a CYA of 80 ppm, you need to have the FC be at least a minimum of 3.6 ppm (4 ppm is a little safer). This is lower than Ben's minimum but we've seen that SWG pools can get away with a somewhat lower minimum due to the more consistent dosing. Definitely only having 1-1.5 is taking a chance for algae to grow unless you are lucky and have low nutrients (phosphate or nitrate) or are using a supplemental algaecide (at extra cost).
Richard
Kevin,
I must have missed the SWG part. Richard, of course, is right, that lower FC levels work when you have an SWG because there's a constant level of chlorine, not a yo-yo effect you must watch for.
Since you have the SWG, just run at the higher level Richard recommends and you won't have a problem.
Carl
Morning All,
So yesterday, I thought I would give it another try at the pool store since it was raining here (seems like that's all it does) and I thought that I needed some CYA and some Calcium. I have to regularly take water out due to the rain.
Here's their numbers:
CYA 100
TC 2
FC 2
pH 7.8
TA 90 (with adj of 60)
hardness 205
salt 2100
here's my numbers with a 234s kit
CYA 45
TC 4.5
FC 4.5
pH 7.5
TA 80
Calcium 260
Salt 3000
What concerns me is that with the exception of TA, we weren't even close. I test every week and typically pH is the only thing that fluctuates unless I need to drain, which I have. My numbers typically don't change much except for salt, CYA, and calcium have been going down as you would expect. I've added salt.
I also have brought my TA down to 80 based on some of the posts here and at another forum.
I tried to explain that TA acts as a pH buffer and that I have intentionally lowered it. When she went over the list of everything I should buy and add, she commented that, "I guess you don't want to add this to raise your TA. Just be careful that your pH doesn't get to low". I chose to not respond at that point.
My concern, is it possible that my kit has an issue? Especially the reagents for CYA, as I measure it lower than I like to keep it. I don't want to add if it is truly 100. I went through that with salt - adding too much and needing to drain to get it in line, I don't want to repeat.
Thanks,
Kevin
PS. Hopefully we all have a dry and wonderful Father's day.
You are dealing with a Bioguard dealer. They want to sell as many chemicals as possible.
Their ALEX testing system is skewed to sell as many chemicals as possible.
It is also strip based.
To give you an idea of how sleazy they are their balance pack100 will say it's sodium hydrogen carbonage which is just another name for sodium bicarbonate but if you try and tell them that they will SWEAR you are wrong and that sodium hydrogen carbonate is different and why balance pack is better than baking soda.
Believe your own testing.
If you really want to stir up somethng ask about CYA. They will tell you that up to 200 ppm is fine (as will all of Chemtura's companies and dealers including Omni, Sun, Guardex, Pooltime, and Aquachem in addition to Bioguard.)
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
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