Borax test Strips and cloudy water

[deep_blue]

Have learned a lot here but I had a problem yesterday...

I had a cloudy problem a few weeks ago and I shocked with chlorine to about
10+ (I do not use chlorine stabilizer, indoor pool) and after filtering and keeping chlorine at 6-10 ppm for a few days with filter on, it got better. Pool seemed to be a green cloudy water with white threads / looked like lint, observed in pool water. A algae or mold?

I use liquid bleach for chlorine.

Is 6-10 ppm chlorine in a non-stabilized indoor pool really high?


Next,
I purchased the Borax test strips and tested water at 10 ppm or lower.

I have thought that getting the Borax level to 40-50 would be good for algae, and pool staying clear and clean, along with chlorine, and proper water chemistry.

I added 2 cups of 20 Mule Team (indoor pool 3500 gals) and wanted to test the changes....So I have probably a total of 4 cups of borax in 3500 gal pool.

I also added PH acid ( sodium bisulfate to get PH to 7.4 ) after Borax and
the starting high PH of 7.8 from all my shocking.

Problem,
The pool became cloudy and I probably should have not spent time in the pool
at that time and now I am (dry itchy, and skin is pretty red)

What do I need to do for the cloudy water?

What did I mess up on? or miss?

And finally, does rust from some Stainless Steel screws and such need to be removed with a metal out type product?



CL 4
CC 0
PH 7.4
TA 80
CH 100
CYA 0 (indoor)



Thanks in advance

deep _blue

[deep_blue]

I have it all. Any suggestions to post?

deep_blue "at some point"

[aylad]

As long as your pool is green and cloudy, I believe that you definitely have algae problems...the only other reason I can think of for water to be green would be metals, but then you wouldn't have started with blue water. Also, the white stringy stuff sounds like water mold. I don't have any experience at all with mold, so I'll have to do a bit of research, but as far as the green and cloudy goes, I would maintain the shock level until it clears, and keep the filter running until all the dead algae/mold is removed from the pool. I suspect that the red, itchy skin came from chloramines that are being formed as your chlorine kills the stuff in the water--I would stay out of it until it clears. The elevated chlorine level also could be drying your skin out--a level of 6-10 in a non-stabilized pool is pretty high.


As far as the rust from the screws...if that's your only source of metal in the water, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. I have about 3 screws in my ladder that are rusting a bit, but other than being ugly in appearance, they're not causing me any problems...at least not yet.

Janet

[deep_blue]

Thanks for the information,


Is 6-10 ppm chlorine in a non-stabilized indoor pool a shock level for algae removal... or what is the shock ppm level on a non-CYA pool?

Is a Borax level of 40-50 would be good for preventing algae?

Does Borax have any health concerns I need to think about?

I have a cartridge filter and Pentair says put a cup if DE in skimmer for bettering filtering. Is this a good idea?

Thanks in advance.

[aylad]

Shock level in a non-stabilized pool is 10 ppm. Last night I read through several threads about water mold (which is apparently common in Baquacil pools that are more than a couple of years old), and shocking/filtering seems to be the answer, just like it is with algae. In an indoor pool, once the algae and mold are dead it may take some time for your chlorine to come back down to swimmable levels, but on the up side you don't have the sun to compete with when you're trying to maintain 10 ppm!

If you haven't already read through it, take some time to read through this thread about Borates at http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=4712 . There was originally some experimentation with borates at 50 ppm to see the effect on rising pH on pools with SWG, but a side effect of the borates seems to be that there are some algaecidal properties. Understand that borates alone won't do the job--you still have to maintain adequate chlorination--but they may help. I don't know much about the health concerns of borates since I haven't raised the level in my pool yet, (haven't finished the research) but there's been some talk around the forum (and it may be in the above thread) about not letting your pets drink from the pool with a high borate level.

Regarding your filter.....several of the forum members use a cup of DE in their sand filters to help filter finer stuff out of the water, but I believe I've seen warnings not to do that with a cartridge filter because the DE gums the filter up. (After I post this I'll try to find that thread and add it here if I can find it). I don't have much experience with cartridge filters (mine is sand), but sine the filtering media is so tightly woven in a cartridge, I would think that DE would plug it up--especially if you're adding a cupful. Hopefully someone around the forum with more experience with cartridges will chime in with an opinion soon!

Janet

[Pool in Carolina Blue]

Shock level in a non-stabilized pool is 10 ppm. Last night I read through several threads about water mold (which is apparently common in Baquacil pools that are more than a couple of years old), and shocking/filtering seems to be the answer, just like it is with algae. In an indoor pool, once the algae and mold are dead it may take some time for your chlorine to come back down to swimmable levels, but on the up side you don't have the sun to compete with when you're trying to maintain 10 ppm!

If you haven't already read through it, take some time to read through this thread about Borates at http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=4712 . There was originally some experimentation with borates at 50 ppm to see the effect on rising pH on pools with SWG, but a side effect of the borates seems to be that there are some algaecidal properties. Understand that borates alone won't do the job--you still have to maintain adequate chlorination--but they may help. I don't know much about the health concerns of borates since I haven't raised the level in my pool yet, (haven't finished the research) but there's been some talk around the forum (and it may be in the above thread) about not letting your pets drink from the pool with a high borate level.

Regarding your filter.....several of the forum members use a cup of DE in their sand filters to help filter finer stuff out of the water, but I believe I've seen warnings not to do that with a cartridge filter because the DE gums the filter up. (After I post this I'll try to find that thread and add it here if I can find it). I don't have much experience with cartridge filters (mine is sand), but sine the filtering media is so tightly woven in a cartridge, I would think that DE would plug it up--especially if you're adding a cupful. Hopefully someone around the forum with more experience with cartridges will chime in with an opinion soon!

Janet

I recently switched from an older Pentair DE to a Pentair Cart (water restrictions in area made backwashing problematic) and my specs indicate that you should use cellulose fiber instead of DE as a filter aid for the cartridge. I was already using CF-138 (a brand of cellulose fiber) instead of DE for my old DE filter so I am now using it with my cartridge. I was always told (by Waterbear and others) that DE would plug your cartridge. The stuff isn't as cheap as DE but is safe for the cart. The funny thing is my manual says to add a cup or so until you get a 1 lb. increase in pressure. I can add multiple cups and my pressure never rises.

Mike

[Watermom]

I have no knowledge about with a cartridge filter, but in a sand filter, when you add DE, you don't get an immediate rise. It takes a while. I learned that the first time I added DE to my sand filter. I added some, saw no pressure change, added more, no change, added more, ............... Then, awhile later, I had a plugged filter and had to backwash.