Confusing info from Taylor Technical support

[fishandfly]

Hey guys,
FAS-DPD showed:
FC: 0-1
CC: .6

Added 6% walmart ultra bleach to shock at 15ppm

Next day FC: 0 and CC: .5

Taylor's expert of the experts said that:
1. Did not reach "break point" to take away all CC
2. Walmart bleach is not good and need to be using "pool grade bleach"
3. Should now bring shock level to 10 x .5 so 5ppm tonight and will see 1-2ppm of FC and CC: 0 tomorrow.

I'll stick with my non pool grade bleach, but just need to know from you all if this sounds right.

[Watermom]

Walmart bleach is just fine. It is all I have ever used in my pool for the past 8 years. If your cc level is 0.5, I normally say don't worry about it. Except that your pool apparently still has a big chlorine demand. I can't tell you how high you need to shock to without knowing your cya reading. Check the "best guess" chart sticky to know how high to shock to. When your pool quits sucking up so much bleach, you can then go to maintenance levels of FC. Like I said, a CC reading of 0.5 is nothing to worry about.

[aylad]

The major difference between WalMart bleach and "pool grade" bleach is the price--do yourself a favor and stick with the WalMart bleach. I agree with Watermom in that we can't tell you how high you need to go with the chlorine to shock it without knowing your CYA level. Also keep in mind that if you are killing off an algae bloom, the water will get cloudy as the algae dies, and it requires much filtration in order to remove the dead algae from the water.

Janet

[fishandfly]

Ok guys, here is the complete info. I'm having a tough time with this because I proceeded to shock the pool to 20ppm last night and my FC this morning is back down to .2 with CC unchanged at about .6.

I've been on bleach since I opened 1 month ago.

I've tested ever other day and sometimes more.

I've never seen a FC number much over 1.0, as stated I was told by the taylor guy that I should shock and will end up with a good amount of FC in the pool. I've never once shocked and ended up with substantial FC.

CC started at 1.6 and has gone down to .6, but has not budged from .6 even though I've shocked 3 times.

PH has bounced between 7.2 and 7.5, and I'm adding borax every couple of days in attempts to bring it back up to 7.5 but it keeps going down.

TA was around 50 at open and about a week ago got to 100 via baking soda, today it read 130 - I'm not sure why it is going up on it's own.

CH - started at 130, tested today at 160

CYA - started at zero this year, added 6 pounds, then shocked twice with aqua chem granules from last year (which I assume have added more) I'm now at 80-100 CYA (I got 80, pool store got 100)

So, I'm left with not understanding much. I've read through the archives, and the taylor how to guide that came with the kit.

By the way. The water seems perfect. It just irritates me that the balance and cl levels are not as controllable as I imagined.

[CarlD]

Wow! You need to get your FC to STAY between 5 and 10 ppm. Until, then you need to shock it up to 20ppm 2 to 3 times a day. That's with CYA=80ppm. If it's 100ppm, then you should be between 8 and (I think) 15 FC and shock to 25 (won't hurt).

You are fighting something and that's why it's dropping. You need to maintain shock level chlorine until it's dead. Meantime, filter on 24/7, brush and vacuum every single day until it maintains a steady FC--and then continue the treatment for 2 more days.

[fishandfly]

Alright, last night I shocked to 25. Test at first light showed 5ppm. Brought it back up to 25 and will test again in the afternoon as well as brushing/vacuuming. Thanks for the guidance!

[fishandfly]

7 hours later and I'm down to 12ppm, while CC is at 0.

Any idea how much of the FC loss is due to the sun? I'm assuming I should wait until dusk to bring it back up to 25, is that correct?