Here we go--

Looks like you'll be doing a Saturday drop - this may work out in your favor. The things you want done by Friday night are to have the floor patched and swept 2X (you always want the third sweeping to be right before the liner goes in! - so that will be done Sat AM), duct tape the wall seams (where the panels meet) and the seam between the coping and wall (what we're trying to do is make the 'shell' of the pool air tight so the vacs can do their job), have the 'behind the liner' gaskets in place, make sure you have both a #2 and a #3 Phillips head screwdriver (if you want to make life MUCH easier, have a cordless drill with both batteries fully charged and the #2 and #3 Phillips bits for them) and make sure that you have all the gaskets, faceplates and screws!, also have kept the liner in the warmest place possible - you want it to be over 60 degrees before unboxing it (however, you do

Saturday morning, give the pool it's final sweep, assemble your crew (it's nice to have some coffee and donuts - or a White Russian to say 'thanx' for helping). Bring out the liner and position it on the diving board (they often stuff some literature in the box, make sure that none of it is on the bottom of the liner), and unfold it into the pool.

***Here's where we get into detail***

The folks in the deep end will tuck ~2' into the track on the long wall near the grecian corner, just to hold the liner up, the rest can just 'flap' for now. The 2 in the shallow end will do the same - now the liner is in the pool and ~ close to where it needs to be. The first place to 'line up' the liner is the transition to the deep end. There should be a mark on the back of the liner (a sticker) but on the inside of the liner there ought be a pen mark (it's sometimes hard to see) showing where they made the transition for the slope while making the liner - often its a seam which follows the break - a straight line across the pool. {using your foot to hold the mark or seam on the break at the wall, pull straight up on the liner and tuck in a 1' section (you want the tile pattern to be perfectly vertical), then do the other side the same way. Now go to the corners of the shallow end and repeat the process and tuck in the liner between the points you've established. At this point, the shallow end should be all tucked in (except for the steps) - tuck in the liner down to the deep end from the break and see how it looks (you don't want wrinkles on the side walls) - use the tile pattern to see if it's still ~vertical. Remove a couple of feet of liner on the side walls so you can put the vac hoses in and slide the hoses down the wall until thay are almost at the bottom (it'd be a good idea to fold over a paper towel about 6 times and wrap that around the end of the hose and secure it with duct tape - the end of the hose can be a little too abrasive on the liner) Use plenty of duct tape to seal the top of the liner around the hose, we don't want any air getting through! Turn on the vacs and watch the liner get sucked to the walls and floor Unfortunately, it's probably not going to seal all that well because of the stairs you can either make a 'mat' of duct tape to seal the stair gap or have 2 people use their (soft soled shoes) to keep the liner tight against the wall/ floor at the edges of the stairs. When you get a full seal on the stairs, and the walls are 'sucked tight' you can start the water. This is the time to put on the stair faceplates (as long as the liner is straight and the shallow end corners are 'spot on')

Now we get into how to put a faceplate on-- You can feel the hole that is supposed to take the screw with your finger. Once you find the hole put a nail (I use a scratch awl) through the faceplate hole, with the gasket in place
on the liner side of the faceplate, and poke it through the liner. Remove the nail and start the screw, don't tighten it all the way now, you want to establish 2 points before tightening it all the way. Once you've established the 2 points, you can poke the nail through the liner (you'll be there forever trying to 'screw' a screw through the liner without first making a hole with the nail!) This is where the cordless drill comes in, take the torque down to ~ 1/2 and install the screws (then go back and hand tighten them - remember that you are dealing with plastic, if you over-torque the screws you might crack the plastic faceplate - the gasket will do the sealing as long as the screw is ~ fairly tight!) Do the stairs, which will help the rest of the liner 'suck - in' better - please make sure that the corners on the stair end are ~ perfect before putting on the stair faceplates!!! and have a helper pull the liner up to ~ the level of the coping tract while installing the stair plates!!.
Once the stairs are done, you can start filling the pool. let the water get ~ 6" and walk down to the bottom and install the MD faceplate (you want the liner
To be fully in place before 'locking it in' with any faceplate - if you have to work a wrinkle out - do it before doing any faceplate!!). Always have the liner where it doesn't have any wrinkles before putting on the faceplates - once a faceplate has been installed, you cut it out- for the light, MD and skimmer, you can be a little 'sloppy on the cut - but for the returns, you need a new blade and don't leave ANY extra - it will interfere with getting the directional eyeballs in and will prevent a full seal when you winterize the pool!

Whew! I think that covers it but let me know