How/Where to Install chlorinator

[rtpatter]

I would prefer not to have to move any of my existing plumbing around hence that is wy I thought an offline feeder would best fit my sitiuation. Based on my picture above where would you suggest I place the offiline feeder? The return line is the one with the 2 paint stains correct? SO that is where I would need to drill right. For offline feeder don't you just drill a hole in the pipe instead of cutting the pipe into like you do for an inline?

[waste]

Yes, for the CL220, you drill 2 3/8" holes and clamp the 'nipples' onto them. As I said, the install is easy. I would love to give you one of my typical 'long winded' responses as to how to do it, but my dog had surgery today (she's fine ) and I need to 'comfort' her some and go to bed

I'll be back tomorrow if you want some more specifics on installing one

[rtpatter]

Sorry to hear about your dog I hope she is feeling better. As far as the installation what type of drill bit to use to drill the holes "(a standard 3/8" bit)? Also most importantly based on my attached picture above where to I need to drill the 2holes? I think the return line is the one with the 2 paint stain droppings on it. I would think I would need to drill one of the holes close to that. However, based on the diagram I have seen one hole needs to be drilled in the line that goes from the pool pump to the filter. In my situation I have a flexible tube that goes from the the pump to the filter so I'm not sure if I can drill a hole into that. If I can drill into the tubing where do I put the hole.

Any advice appreciated.

[CarlD]

I can't help you either but I CAN say that like Poconos, we only view puck-chlorinators as "bad" when they are used incorrectly. I personally think for me they would a waste of money, because on the rare occasions I need tri-chlor pucks (and they do occur) I simply use $10 adjustable floating dispensers. However, if you, like Poconos, prefer them, I would simply follow Al's advice and make sure you do NOT use it when your CYA levels are as high as you want, or your pH levels are as low as you dare go.

For new concrete/tile/plaster pools, Tri-chlor pucks are the way to go--they fight the high pH gen'ed by the curing walls, and add needed CYA gradually, while maintaining a fairly constant FC level.

In fact, generally when CYA is too low, pucks or Di-Chlor powder are an excellent choice for one-stop treatment.

ALL of this, of course, is based on the assumption that you are testing your water regularly and carefully, including CYA levels.

OTOH, despite many people's assertions that I have something against salt-water generators, nothing could be further from the truth. I think they are neat, fantastic gadgets, but I have yet to be able to justify the cost of one for my pool--but I am sorely tempted!

[waste]

Have you checked your picture post? (it's full of porn offers - I assume that's from the host you're using to post the pic) Anyway, when I stopped checking out the 'other' stuff, you can drill the 3/8" hole just about anywhere after the "tee" that the (I assume is for a slide line) - they only take up ~ 1/2".
Hayward says that the influent line should be before the filter... I think that's stupid - why run unfiltered water through the chlorinator???? - however, I've always just done as they say and put it on the pipe going from the pump into the filter. Because of the flex pipe, I'd drill into the coupling just above the pump outlet- the 'saddle clamps' that come with the unit are large enough to do it that way, so you have something solid to attach to.

[aylad]

rtpatter,

I have deleted the link that you provided to your pictures, because the porn is not just offered from your page, but the pictures are very, very explicit and are very offensive. Please do not post a link with pornography content on this forum. Thank you...

Janet