How/Where to Install chlorinator

[rtpatter]

I know that on this board chlorinators are viewed as bad and I will still primarily use bleach however I would like to ditch my floater that I use and install a chlorinator. However, based on my setup I wasn't sure how/where to install one or if I should just hire it done. I attached a photo. I think where I would need to install one would be right where the two paint drop stains are close to the polaris booster pump. I think that is the return line. However, I don't think I have enough room in the line to install an inline chlorinator. Therefore, do I need an offline chlorinator? Also do I need a backflow valve to prevent fumes from backing up into my heater?

Any advice appreciated

[Poconos]

Inline chlorinators are not bad. You just have to know when to use them. When I need to add CYA I switch to trichlor and throw pucks in mine. Otherwise it just sits empty. The vertical rise on your heater outlet should be enough to keep high level chlorinated water from backing up to the heater. Install the chlorinator as far from the heater as possible. Check valves can be problematic and add additional restriction which you don't want.
Edit: Don't know if you're used to working with PVC but it's easy and cheap so practice first. Getting a straight cut back there can be a little difficult and a reciprocating saw make it easier.
Al

[rtpatter]

So based on my picture where would you suggest I install the chlorinator so that it is also far away from the heater? I'm assuming that an offline chlorinator is really the only choice I have given my space restrictions correct?

[Poconos]

I know nothing about off line chlorinators. I assume they are the injection varietey? Like I said...totally dumb here. Someone else will chime in I'm sure.
Al

[Poolsean]

Easiest thing to do is to relocate your booster pump suction point closer to the heater (on the vertical line) and put your in-line tab feeder horizontally, before it goes into the ground.

Even better to put an AutoPilot manifold there...but that's another story.

[waste]

Please note that I am speaking of the Hayward CL-220 off line feeder.

The off line feeder is the basically the same as the in line model. Before many of our customers started getting SWCG systems, they were included on every pool the company I work for installed, as such, I've 'played' with hundreds of them. To be sure, they have problems (!) - but those are most probably minimized by not having them used as the only chlorine source. There are a lot of little parts that tend to break (the connectors for the hoses) regularly (yearly) and the lid o-ring can sometimes need to be replaced more than once a season On the plus side, they are incredibly easy to install, and if you use it as Al uses his, I doubt that you'll have the problems I've seen They do have a built in backflow preventer (which only occasionally sticks ), so a 'check valve' before it isn't necessary.

If you decide to go with one, remove the pucks when you're not using the unit - this alone will probably prevent most of the problems I've had to fix. If you have any other questions on what I've said, or want a little info on installation - I'll tell you what I know

[rtpatter]

I would prefer not to have to move any of my existing plumbing around hence that is wy I thought an offline feeder would best fit my sitiuation. Based on my picture above where would you suggest I place the offiline feeder? The return line is the one with the 2 paint stains correct? SO that is where I would need to drill right. For offline feeder don't you just drill a hole in the pipe instead of cutting the pipe into like you do for an inline?

[waste]

Yes, for the CL220, you drill 2 3/8" holes and clamp the 'nipples' onto them. As I said, the install is easy. I would love to give you one of my typical 'long winded' responses as to how to do it, but my dog had surgery today (she's fine ) and I need to 'comfort' her some and go to bed

I'll be back tomorrow if you want some more specifics on installing one

[rtpatter]

Sorry to hear about your dog I hope she is feeling better. As far as the installation what type of drill bit to use to drill the holes "(a standard 3/8" bit)? Also most importantly based on my attached picture above where to I need to drill the 2holes? I think the return line is the one with the 2 paint stain droppings on it. I would think I would need to drill one of the holes close to that. However, based on the diagram I have seen one hole needs to be drilled in the line that goes from the pool pump to the filter. In my situation I have a flexible tube that goes from the the pump to the filter so I'm not sure if I can drill a hole into that. If I can drill into the tubing where do I put the hole.

Any advice appreciated.

[CarlD]

I can't help you either but I CAN say that like Poconos, we only view puck-chlorinators as "bad" when they are used incorrectly. I personally think for me they would a waste of money, because on the rare occasions I need tri-chlor pucks (and they do occur) I simply use $10 adjustable floating dispensers. However, if you, like Poconos, prefer them, I would simply follow Al's advice and make sure you do NOT use it when your CYA levels are as high as you want, or your pH levels are as low as you dare go.

For new concrete/tile/plaster pools, Tri-chlor pucks are the way to go--they fight the high pH gen'ed by the curing walls, and add needed CYA gradually, while maintaining a fairly constant FC level.

In fact, generally when CYA is too low, pucks or Di-Chlor powder are an excellent choice for one-stop treatment.

ALL of this, of course, is based on the assumption that you are testing your water regularly and carefully, including CYA levels.

OTOH, despite many people's assertions that I have something against salt-water generators, nothing could be further from the truth. I think they are neat, fantastic gadgets, but I have yet to be able to justify the cost of one for my pool--but I am sorely tempted!