Oval Pool Set up with pics and tips?

[chazzilla]

Man, I hear ya. Maybe Dennis can drop us some hints. The first liner install we did 4 years ago, we tried the vacuum thing, and it didn't seem to do anything. It was a jhook, but still. We just did our best, and had wrinkles all in it. Sure makes you respect all the Professionals out there. Our family has nothing to do with thinking that I can do as good of a job as them, and save a boat load of cash while Im at it, but more for the challenge that it presents. Ive always thought if I can do it half as good as them, then Ill be satisfied. The main thing is thinking realistic!

[huskerfan]

Here's a pic of the base framework of our 18x34 buttressless oval pool. The most important part of setting up any type of pool is getting the patio blocks set as close to perfectly level as possible, and use larger ones on the sides under the side uprights as that's where the most of the pressure will be. If you have to "fill" in anything - use stone dust/ aka crusher, screenings... like Matt said. I had to drive 3 hours to a Quarry to get some in Nebraska. Local gravel places... don't carry it here. It's basically crushed limestone. Not powder limestone, though- don't confuse that. As said- you can't build up an oval because of the strapping system underneath it. you can see the metal straps in the photo on ours.

After assembling the walls- we put on the wall foam, coving strips on the bottom (the kind with the peel away tape are wonderful), then spread our sand and compacted it good, then put on a blue wave pad, liner, water, steps... we were too tired for the margarita part, lol. The pool pad helped to keep footprints out of the sand, but it was really hot the day we put ours up, and the liner didn't slide well on it. Don't forget to pile your sand and liner inside the pool area before putting up your walls. Not sure exactly why you want to use styrofoam??? Also- make sure you have some slope running down and away from your pool.

Matt gave me very good instructions for vacuuming the liner while you fill it - it worked great for us and saved us a bunch of wrinkles. My 9 yr old manned the switch on the vac for me, as it'll make an aweful sound when all the air is out, and you'll have to shut it off then. Wait a little bit- then run it again.

For us - the strapping system and the extra details that come with an oval, took as long to assemble as probably a whole round pool. Just a price you have to pay if that's all your yard will accomodate. Professionals charge more too- for that reason, to install an oval vrs. a round. I'm confident mine is every bit as sturdy and secure as any round out there.

DIY is a lot of work - would I do it again, probably not, lol, mainly because my hubby isn't fond of our pool, and it was a big job, don't kid yourself! Great pride in it now, though! Even my 9 year old helped a lot with both our pool and deck, and tells everyone who comes to swim. It's all worth it in the end!

[Aranon]

Thanks Donya for the info and the picture. Surely you took more pictures during your project. Please say you did. Would you post more pics. The one you sent really helps. I now am starting to grasp what I will be doing. Please send more.

Aranon

[matt4x4]

Aranon - the pic from donya - huskerfan, shows you what screenings look like, copacted screenings - I just meant don't just put the stuff down, it HAS to be compacted using a power compacter - available for 30 bucks a day at your local tool rental.
Screenings is what they're called in Canada, I believe they're called crusher run in the USA, but don't quote me - essentially it 's the little bits and pieces that fall out the bottom of the crusher that makes 3/4" gravel from stone, the pieces are rice crispy sized right down to stone dust and compact extremely well with moisture.

[huskerfan]

Unfortunately, when we lost all the info. on the old forum, we lost a very detailed letter by Matt explaining step by step how to install a pool. When we put ours up - I posted, usually with pics every night to show our progress. Here are some more photos that might be of help.

Use the instruction manual with caution - sometimes just go with your instincts and common sense. After your ground is as level as you can get it - go ahead and assemble your bottom rail and boots. We started out measuring and setting our blocks that way, and it wasn't coming out, so we scrapped the instructions, set up the bottom of the pool, placed and marked off where the blocks should be - then set the blocks. The main area that needs to be level is all the way around where the pool wall will sit. We left the middle of our pool flat and didn't dig a deep end or anything. My daughter was borderline touching the way it was with our 54"wall. Some say if you dish out the middle your liner will stretch more and you'll have less wrinkles, this only applies to rounds, not ovals. With the strapping system underneath you need the ground to support it.

Our instructions said that with our liner we didn't need to use the white plastic coping strips, but they really should be used as extra insurance.

You'll notice the scallop effect on the sides - we still have that - not quite as noticeable, but it still is there. I've seen other oval pics and they had it too, so due to the design of the pool I think they're inevitable. You don't notice it so much after the top rail goes on.

I "luckily" missed out on spreading the liner out, had to return the compactor while that was being done. There are marks/arrows on it showing where they need to go. I don't think anyone can get a pool completely wrinkle free - but we're pretty close.

To use the vacuum to suck the air out between the wall and the liner, take cardboard and cut it a few inches bigger than the shape of your skimmer and return holes. On the piece that goes over the skimmer hole- cut a hole in the middle of it, big enough for the shop vac hose to go through it. Go ahead and push a couple feet of hose through it, then tape around the edges of the hose. If you use wall foam, cut a circle out of the middle of the skimmer hole just big enough to put your vac hose through. DO NOT CUT THROUGH THE LINER! Run the hose in between the wall/wallfoam and the liner and tape all the way around the cardboard to the outside wall of the pool to close off the skimmer hole, then tape a piece of cardboard over the return hole also. Have someone manning the switch on the vac, as when the air is all removed between the wall and liner ours made a heck of a noise and needed to be shut off. Keep turning it back on and off and I stayed inside the pool and worked the wrinkles out on the floor with a good garage broom. The water was mighty chilly to be in, but worth the effort. After we had about a foot of water in the pool we put our walk in/wedding cake steps in, and secured them down with 5 sand bags. I used a piece of vinyl underneath them for added protection to the liner.

We never had to adjust the top of the liner when it was filling, actually it went pretty smooth all in all.

Matt was VERY supportive all the way through our installation - you have to keep reminding yourself of the finished product and the fun and relaxation you'll have with it for many, many years!!!

[ShelleyAnn]

I know I read that the patio blocks on the round ends aren't really necessary as there is really no downward pressure on the ends--just outward. We are ready to put the sides up and I need to know whether to stop everyone and go get some 12 x 12 or continue. Akkkkkkk!

[huskerfan]

I would highly recommend to use the 12x12 blocks on the oval ends. They're cheap and keep the bottom boot of the pool cleaner too. I'm all for overkill when it comes to something you want to last 30+years!!

You shouldn't be using 12x12 blocks on the sides where the buttress free uprights go - there is a thicker heavier duty block made: I believe they're approx. 3 inches thick x approx. 14 inches long- don't quote me, but close to there. Get the solid ones - not the ones with the holes in them. That is where your pressure lies- you need the heavier ones there. You can find them at Menards, Lowes - or wherever you bought the other ones from. If you look closely at one of my pics above - you'll see them and they are set back outside of the uprights as pictured.

[huskerfan]

Sorry - the blocks should be approx. 3inches thick x 6 or 7 inches wide x approx. 14 inches long. It's a standard size - there are no other sizes to choose from.