Aqua Rite Cell Life?

[dawndenise]

Do these things wear out after a few years? It has quite a bit of weather wear on it, telling me it does have some years on it.

I'm certainly no expert on SWCGs but managed to find an older post by PatL34 - look at the first page - http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthr...ght=cell+volts that said when your DC volts go UP and your DC amps go DOWN from your normal readings, it can be an indication of your cell going bad. When you know your cell is generating chlorine, not reversing, you can push your diagnostics button a few times (see owner's manual) and see what those 2 readings are and compare them to your usual.

[explorthis]

I did go to the local pool place this morning to have the salt level checked, hoping I was just low on salt - NOT the answer. I am at 4000+PPM!!

Readings on my diagnostics button:

2500
82 temp
26.3 volts
3.61 amps
84% output
-1500 instant salinity (this is my concern)

They told me the difference between the 2 readings (2500 and -1500) should be no more than about 300-400 MAX.

They tested my chlorine level, NADA. I did add 2 gallons of the liquid stuff until they send out a service tech to confirm my diagnosis of a dead cell.

I am 99% sure it is the cell, and wondering if I should just get a new one, saving myself the $55 service call, however if I do buy a new one, and it is NOT the cell, then I am out the cost of the cell!!

I am still trying to figure out how old my cell is based on the serial# (have not called them yet) the serial# on the T-Cell-15 is 1A0208-003204. I could not find any serial info from Google’ing numerous choices.

Suggestions?

[dawndenise]

Again, I say I'm not an expert on SWCGs....however, I've had both my cell and control panel replaced shortly after installation (long story). In the course of replacement, I came to know the date codes. Unfortunately, I don't have anything in my notes to say how I came to know this, so I wouldn't bet my life on it.

So, take this with a grain of salt (pun intended ) but I would think that your cell was manufactured in August of 2002. It may or may not have been installed at that time.

Hopefully a PB, SWCG expert, or pool repair person can chime in to say if this is truly correct or not.

[explorthis]

Hey Sandy,

Thanks for the replies…

Update…. I decided Sunday, to take off the SWG, and take a peek inside, though only 2 or 3 weeks ago I had SOAKED it, and cleaned it. To my amazement, there was quite a bit of the white corrosion (I do knot know what it is called) between the plates, not an excessive amount, but clearly visible to my eye. I spent a good 45 minutes soaking, and cautiously cleaning it. I did notice, there was considerable build up at the sensors, where the plug goes into the unit.

Once cleaned, and cycled, the reading is now at 2800, and -2400 with no errors. I am wondering since I had the output at 84%, that this might be a bit high, so I lowered it to 60% to see what will happen. Ran all day Sunday (cycle is 9:00am-3:00pm daily) and today. It was fine this afternoon. I did the 5-drop test in the colored test kit, and had a GOOD yellow color, which made me feel better.

I am still concerned about its life, since I read some folks get 3000+++ in there readings. I have seen 3,000 one time since we have owned it. I am about 98% sure the cell is reaching the end of its life. I will (as usual) keep a close eye.

As for the serial#, 1A0208, I am guessing this means 2001 (the “1”) and January (the “A”) maybe…

Anywho, appreciate the follow up, and hope someone else can shed a bit more for me.

-Mike

[Poolsean]

Please don't take me as an expert on the Goldline, but I know on the older models (if yours is a 2001 or 2002), that the salinity was based upon the cell condition, water temperature and actual salinity level. As you're suspecting that your cell is getting old (which I would agree with), your higher salt level (4000 + ppm) is actually allowing your cell to continue to generate chlorine. This is consistent with how an AutoPilot unit would operate with a failing cell too. Higher salt levels compensate for the reduced ability of the cell to conduct the amps and volts across the cell blades.
If you winterize, you may be able to stretch this cell to the end of the season, they you will need another one. My recommendation if this is what it happening, is to wait until you open your pool next season to replace the cell. If you get the cell now, you're going to loose 4-6 months of cell warranty because you won't be using it while your pool is winterized.

If you don't winterize, you can go about another month or two with the high salt levels and still maintain chlorine in your pool, but make sure the cell remains clean of the white calcium scale. Then you will eventually need to get a new cell.

Keep in mind that when you do replace the cell, the unit should recognize the high salinity level so you will have to dilute your pool to get your salt level back down. Otherwise the unit will indicate a HIGH SALT level warning.

Hope this helps,