What Are the Correct Numbers For a SWG Pool?

[jaypool]

Hi,

I have a swg pool. It is an in-ground pool (gunite). I had the Autopilot Digital installed. I did a search in this forum and could not find what the "correct numbers" should be for this type of pool with a SWG so I started this thread. I also looked in the SWG forum but saw no listing with what the "correct numbers" should be. If I missed it, please delete it but pm me with the link.

Am I correct that the following numbers and ideas about what should be done are right:

PH= 7.2-7.8 (I set the autopilot to 7.5, you can decrease this by adding acid or just letting the autopilot do it and you can increase it by adding 20 Mule Team Borax or again, just let the autopilot do it).

TA = 80-125 ppm (to increase this use baking soda, if you need to lower it, follow Ben's 6 step process to lower alkalinity which takes you through lowering & raising PH by adding acid to get the TA to where you need it: I presume I could do this with the autopilot). As I understand it, TA make sure you PH doesn't take wild swings.

FC = 3 ppm (can use non-scented bleach to raise this or just keep the SWG running; UNLESS you have an algae problem: if you have algae, shock the heck out of it with the bleach per Ben's "best guess" & keep it there until it is gone and 2 days after it is gone)

TC = 3 ppm

CC = 0 ppm

CYA = 60-80 ppm (otherwise known as stabilizer and this helps prevent the chlorine from getting "eaten up" by the sun, etc.).

Calcium = 200-400 ppm (since it is a gunite pool).

Salt = 2500-3500 ppm. (Autopilot gives a reading automatically but I understand we should use a test kit to make sure it is reading it correctly).

Water = If you are using well water like me to add water to the pool, you should get a temporary water filter for the hose (where do I get one of these?).

To get the correct readings for these numbers get one of Ben's test kits or a Taylor FAS-DPD, K-2006.

This is what I picked up from reading these forums and printing out pages of what should be done.

Am I right about all that?

[Watermom]

Looks like you have been doing your homework! You are pretty much on target except the chlorine readings. With a cya of 60-80, a FC of 3 is too low. Take a look at the "best guess" chart again.

Somebody else will have to answer the part about the temporary water filter. I have no idea where you would get one of those.

Enjoy your pool!

[waterbear]

Actually, Salt pools seem to operate fine at a FC level of 3-5 ppm even though the CYA is 60-80 ppm. Many posters on this forum with salt pools have reported this.
If you maintain your TA on the low side (about 80 ppm) and maintain your pH at about 7.5-7.6 you will get better pH stability becuase of less outgassing of carbon dioxide.

The filter you are talking about is commonly called a 'fill stick'. You can google that to find out more.

If your well water tests negative for metals then you probably don't need one.

Also, adding borates to 50 ppm has been shown to be helplful in salt pools by reducing santizer demand and stabilizing pH. Search the forum for 'borates'.

Did you have the "Total Control System" installed or just the Autopilot Digital? The Total Control inlcudes and acid tank and pH and ORP controllers to automate pH control and chlorine levels. The Digital will not maintian pH without manual addition of acid to the pool.

[jaypool]

Thanks for your help. I had the Total Control installed that has the automatic acid tank so it automatically adds acid when I need it to lower PH.

I have spent some hours reading and searching through threads to get through all this! I think I understand most of it now.

How do you test for metal in your water?