Pros and Cons of a Saltwater System

[Spensar]

I have found that closer to 2000 ppm is the point at which I notice a difference. Let me tell you, what a difference it is. Just add pure water softener salt, let it disolve and walla!

Dave

How do you add it, pre-dissolve in water or just broadbcast in the deep end?

[KurtV]

Just dump it in near the main drains; it'll dissolve and get distributed through the return(s) in a matter of minutes.

[Spensar]

Any rouigh rule of thumb on how much pure water softener salt is required to raise the salt content a certain ppm for a given quantity of water. eg. x pounds to get 50 ppm for 10,000 gallons.

[joelq]

You can use the BleachCalc - follow this thread for information on where to get it: http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=4735. It performs a wide variety of chemistry calculations, including those for salt.

For example, according to BleachCalc, for a 10000 gallon pool, adding a 40 lb bag of salt will raise the salt level by 479.9 ppm. Keep in mind that your pool water probably already does contain a couple to a few hundred ppm of salt as well.

[Sumo1]

For example, according to BleachCalc, for a 10000 gallon pool, adding a 40 lb bag of salt will raise the salt level by 479.9 ppm. Keep in mind that your pool water probably already does contain a couple to a few hundred ppm of salt as well.[/QUOTE]


When I converted to SWG, the product manual suggested about 800# of salt for a 30K gal pool (mine is about 27K), yet I only needed 550# to get to 3200ppm. That would suggest the water had maybe 500-1000ppm salt just through sweat and atmosphere(?). If the calculations are incorrect, please forgive me-I majored in English, not math. My point is, buy some salt test strips and get a feel for how many ppm a bag adds to your pool, because it will always be dropping. I hope this helps someone.
Hal

[steveinaz]

I have been extremely pleased with my QuikChlor SWCG. One thing that is important to remember, having a SWCG can make you a little complacent about checking chlorine levels. You still need to check your chlorine at least weekly (I check my chlorine & ph Wed/Sat) as your SWCG will need to be adjusted occasionally. As an example, in May a setting of 40% worked fine; June it had to be kicked up to 60%, and July to 72%. We are having an extremely hot and very sunny summer this year. Last night I just readjusted to 65% as the monsoon season brings alot of cloudiness, and less chlorine is lost. My pump run time is 8hrs, FWIW.

[nater]

This is my third season with an Autopilot SWC (60 series). I'm extremely happy with it.

I used to deal with pH rise, but no longer. Read some of the posts in the China Shop about Borax, pH rise, SWC, etc. I run Alk on the low side (70-80), pH at 7.5-7.8, and at least 50 ppm Borates. I've added less than a gallon of acid to my pool since May. That's even with a fountain running all July to help keep temps down. (Note I have a vinyl pool with no heater).

As for convenience, I just returned from a 10 day vacation to a pristine pool. Nobody had to check on it, baby sit it, etc. Perfect levels, perfect clarity. Ran the Dolphin for a cycle and the pool was in perfect shape.

The day after I got back we had some serious rainfall (finally!). I had to drop the level twice to avoid overflowing, and never had to touch my chemistry (Except adding some salt to combat the dilution effect). The SWC kept up nicely and no algae showed its ugly head. Gotta love that!

[donaldm823]

I just shifted to SWG from Chlorox adds (was adding 1.5ppm per day or a 1.4gal jug every 2 days)(frankly, the carrying of Chlorox jugs from the supermarket was becoming a PIA for my wife!!!)(the local pool store was asking $17.00 for a 5gal chlorine bottle-12%, so Chlorox was the cheapest way to go)-bought an Autopilot Digital SC-60 online from an Internet Pool store and a 50% savings from the Autopilot website retail cost and the local dealer. Love the results. The SC-60 is one size larger than needed (my pool is 30,000 gal)-but happy with larger cell and I only run my pump 10hr/day.. Bottom line, I bought the SWG for convenience not money savings, as the initial cost may not save you money over the life of the system

The water is much clearer (think it is due to a more consistent chlorine level)(sparkles brightly in the full sun, and has a tint of "aquamarine" color in the afternoon sun from the salt add, no eye stinging, CC is always under 0.10ppm level, so, shocking no longer, and best of all, it has allowed me to remove my Nature2 system which saves me an additional $100.00 per season for the cartridge.).(The Nature 2 system was causing some pool wall discoloration).

No one can tell I have salt in the pool!!! Of course, I can-and periodically I taste a slight salt taste for the first 5 min of pool entry-then the taste goes more to a sweet taste. I do have to add approx 1 qt of acid every 3-4 days if there is a lot pool water surface agitation, but if I cause the pool discharge to go to the main drain (called solar recirc by the pool builder), I have found the water agitation is none and my pH is relatively constant (can go almost 1 week without an acid add. My pool is 2 years old-used TRI the first year and the BBB (chlorox) the second year. I would never shift back

Of note-Bleachcalc and the SWG manual said I needed 700lb of salt added-but I only had to add 300lb to get to the 3000ppm level. So measure salt content before adding. Based on forum comments, the initial pool salt level was approx 1500ppm and was from chlorox adds as well as the first year TRI, DI, and CaHypo adds-all of which end up as salts once the chlorine is used up. In the month of usage, I have not had to add any additional salt, and the autopilot has kept up with the chlorine demand easily. Now that is has gotten cooler in PA (80F days and 60F nights) and my using a solar cover at night-my typical setting is 40% and the lowest of 3 power level settinsg

As for the Autopilot-very happy with the purchase-has all the bells and whistles (even tells you when and how much salt to add). The install was done by me and very easy since they give you a cell manifold that gets glued into your PVC discharge line. The hardest part was the wiring and conduit install-due to the close quarter confines of my pool timer vs where I hung the SWG control box-still only a 1 hr job for wiring and a 2hr job for cutting PVC and gluing (most of the 2 hr was waiting for the glue cure).