I have been fighting this all summer too. It sounds like mustard algae. I too wonder if someone makes pucks without stabilizer. It would make sense to me.
I have been fighting this all summer too. It sounds like mustard algae. I too wonder if someone makes pucks without stabilizer. It would make sense to me.
34 X 22/15 inground vinyl w/ Hayward equipment
There are some slow-dissolving Cal-Hypo pucks, but they tend to fall apart near the end and leave residue and they increase Calcium Hardness (CH). Unfortunately, there is no slow-dissolving source of chlorine that doesn't add CYA nor CH. The Trichlor pucks aren't literally separate CYA and chlorine put together -- they are a compound molecule that in water forms separate CYA and chlorine.
You do have choices for automatic injection or production of chlorine without adding CYA or CH. You can add a saltwater chlorine generator (SWG) to produce chlorine from salt water or you can get The Liquidator that is discussed in this thread and adds bleach or chlorinating liquid or you can install a peristaltic pump as discussed in this thread (and other threads).
Richard
I have a Hayward DE filter with a Hayward Super Pump. I also have a Rheem electric heat pump for heating the pool. Given all this equipment, can I pour bleach right into the skimmers, or do I need to remove the solar cover and distribute bleach into the water every time I need to add it? I'm worried that having the bleach circulate through the filter, pump and heater in such high concentrations will damage this equipment somehow. The heater has a copper coil, not titanium, unfortunately. Perhaps even more importantly, the bleach will be going through my Hayward Chlorinator with 3" pucks in it. Will this cause some sort of chemical mismatch? I know there are some types of chlorine you can't put into the chlorinator.
As for the solar cover, it's a necessity as I pay the highest electric rates in the country (0.19 KwH !!) , and it saves me over $1000.00 per season in electric to use it. It is, however, a major hassle to use, as I have an unusually large "L" shaped pool and the cover has to come off and on manually in three separate pieces. Any info on the perils, if any, of adding the bleach right through the skimmer would be appreciated. Thanks!
Last edited by AE340B; 07-15-2007 at 02:09 PM.
Well you don't have the highest rates. Ours are about 0.35/kwh in Northern California if you hit over 300% of baseline. The baseline is set so low that you would have to live in a cave to meet it. It is not adjusted for large family or anything. I have energy star appliances. My new pump keeps me below the rate, but just barely so I ONLY pay 0.32/kwh!
Do you have an electric heater or a water well with a pump? Is that how you are saving on electricity? I have a gas heater (along with my solar heater) and municipal water so I can't see where a cover would save me anything but on my water bill. It would also allow us to swim much longer around here, but my pool is a large, odd shape so it would be cumbersome to use.
I have brownish algae spots every now and then in a dead area of my pool, but brushing allows the saltwater chlorinator to keep it at bay.
Salinda
owner of ~35,000 gallon plaster IG pool/spa combo. Ikeric Dyna-Miser VS150 filter pump, 2 hp whisperflo spa jet pump, The Pool Cleaner 2x suction cleaner, Clean & Clear Plus 520 cartridge filter, Zodiac Clearwater LM2-40 SWG, Sta-rite 400k heater, solar heat pads and coils.
From what I have learned on this forum, it is safe to add bleach through the skimmer as long as you don't have a trichlor chlorine injector in use. The bleach makes a short trip through the filter and heater and is quickly followed and diluted by pool water. As long as the pump is running for a few hours after you add bleach, it shouldn't be a problem.
34 X 22/15 inground vinyl w/ Hayward equipment
Bookmarks