Algae is driving me nuts

[chem geek]

Unless you completely shock the pool at high levels (60% of the CYA level for 2-3 days) and do not have yellow/mustard algae reintroduced into the pool (via bathing suits, poles/brushes, etc. so wash the former in hot soapy water and put the latter items into the pool while shocking), then the higher maintenance FC isn't necessary. But if for whatever reason the algae is put back into your pool, then yes, keeping the FC at 15% of the CYA level has been the point which keeps it from growing, based on several user reports so far over more than a year.

I'm going to write to Buckman Labs for any info on whether PolyQuat 60 inhibits this algae -- we know it's good for keeping away green algae, but so is maintaining chlorine levels. Though higher levels of chlorine will keep yellow/mustard algae away, perhaps a little assistance from an algaecide would be an option. I'll let y'all know what I find out.

There was one report on another forum of copper sulfate getting rid of this algae, but we all know the side effects and downsides of copper so that's why I want to see if our stalwart PolyQuat 60 will do the trick for those that don't want to maintain the higher FC level or just want extra insurance.

Richard

[chem geek]

I received a response from Buckman Labs and PolyQuat 60 will be effective at inhibiting all the common forms of algae -- green, yellow/mustard, and black. It may take different levels to inhibit different forms, but we are restricted to the dosages recommended on the bottle so basically I say that if you want to try that, you can see if it works to inhibit yellow/mustard algae in your situation. You could even use less than the recommended amounts if you want to see if the threshold is lower, but I suspect that the threshold is only lower for green algae, not for yellow/mustard. By law, you are supposed to stay within the dosages recommended on the container label, but I think there should be no problem trying less -- the main issue is that using more than the recommended amounts doesn't meet the safety standards that were proven to the government during registration while going lower may not meet the effectiveness standard which we are less concerned with IF a lower level is still effective for our needs.

I would also guess that having the chlorine level at the normal target to inhibit green algae may allow for somewhat less PolyQuat 60 to be needed since the combination could be somewhat additive in terms of prevention of algae, but again that's something for you to try. Carl, for example, keeps his FC level at normal targets, but uses a small amount of PolyQuat 60.

Be sure to let us know how it works out if you try the PolyQuat 60.

Richard

[shadowman]

Thanks Richard. I have a quart of PolyQuat 60 but I haven't used any yet. The pool has been sparkling all week since my last shock. We have had very hot weather, over 100, for a few days and the chlorine is staying very stable. I add a little 6% bleach every other day and the numbers are holding nicely even with the blanket off. I will continue to keep you posted.

[Sprocket]

Sounds good .

If you want really trouble free summer get that CYA to 30-35 . Mine is that this summer and it's so easy now that anyone could take care of it .

Higher CYA = less cleaning at more "normal" lvls of FC .

[shadowman]

I will have to wait until next summer to get my CYA down to a reasonable level. Inspite of our reputation in Oregon, water is not so cheap and plentiful that I can justify draining 10,000 gals into the street. I will just manage it this year and then drain it more than usual in the fall and let the rain fill it up. Now watch us have a record shortfall But I definitely have gone all BBB!

[CarlD]

I'm not surprised that Buckman says it's good for mustard algae--I frequently buy "Mustard Algaecide" because it's just Polyquat.

You CAN safely "overdose" your pool on Polyquat, dumping in a full quart or even two. What will happen is within 48 hours your chlorine level will drop to ZERO! Don't worry, that's normal. Just add bleach/LC to get it back to the shock level and let it come down gradually.

The algae won't start growing when you this and FC plunges--I guess the Polyquat does its job! But you MUST re-shock the pool to kill other stuff. An added bonus is that Poly is also an excellent flocculant so it will cause smaller particles to clump and be captured by the filter.

Remember: The BIGGEST problem with algae is that it consumes your chlorine, leaving you no protection against bacteria and other nasty stuff. Yeah, it's ugly and gross, but that's not the issue. It drains the ability to keep the water sanitary.

It's very important to remember this difference, especially if you are using one of the alternative systems like Nature2 that claims to reduce chlorine usage. THEY ONLY ACT AS ALGAECIDES! You still need chlorine for sanitation.

[chem geek]

Buckman Labs had indicated in an earlier answer to a question that I had (see this post) that high doses of PolyQuat and chlorine will cause the chlorine to break down the PolyQuat polymer into smaller pieces, but that these pieces are still effective as an algaecide. Of course, the chlorine gets consumed when this happens, as Carl described, but no biggie, just add more. So generally if you are going to add a lot of chlorine and PolyQuat, such as when you are going to close a pool for the winter, you first shock with chlorine, then when the chlorine drops to more normal levels, you add a bunch of PolyQuat and close up. That was their recommendation for winter closing.

Richard