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Thread: Considerable water under pump housing...

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  1. #1
    finch Guest

    Default Re: Considerable water under pump housing...

    Ok, that didn't solve it.

    I was careful to wipe the surfaces clean with a damp cotton cloth and I followed your instructions for tightening.

    1. Is there much chance I overtightened? I also tried backing off a quarter turn and that didn't help.


    I can see water running in a near stream from the very bottom center around the seal plate. I can't tell if it is from the wet or dry side of the plate. I see no water coming from anywhere else around the seal plate.
    I guess I need to replace the shaft seal assembly at this point.
    2. Is the leak I am describing consistent with a failed shaft seal?

    3. The hayward parts list shows seal assembly 1600Z2. Is this different from 1600CZ2?

    4. Do I need to replace the new housing gasket and replace it any time I pull the pump apart or can I use the one I just put on?

    5. Would it hurt anything to put plumbers grease on the housing gasket?

    I have read that I need to be very careful not to get any grease on or touch the ceramic and certain portions of the seal.
    Any tips you can give on the shaft assembly replacement would be welcome. Is this something that is difficult to do right or are my chances good of fixing this leak properly?

  2. #2
    waste is offline PF Support Team Whizbang Spinner waste 3 stars waste 3 stars waste 3 stars
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    Thumbs up Re: Considerable water under pump housing...

    Finch, sorry the housing gasket didn't solve the leak. Next step is to look at the seal assy and the inside of the pump housing - sorry, I completely ignored the fact that the housing itself could be cracked . You obviously know how to get the housing apart and back together as you changed the housing gasket. This time take a look at the inside of the housing for any obvious cracks in the body (it's unlikely, but possible that the body failed) - if you find no cracks, it's time for the SP 1600 Z 2 (my bad- there is another part that has the "C" before the "Z 2") This thread covers a lot of what you'll need to do - the difference is that you'll use the 7/16" wrench to 'lock' the shaft while unscrewing the impeller. Once the impeller is off the seal plate will 'fall off' the mounting plate. Inside the seal plate is a ceramic and rubber seal - to get it out, turn it face down and put a flat head screwdriver on the back edge and 'knock it out'. The part on the impeller you want to take a good look at so you'll be able to put the new one on correctly - know which end goes towards the impeller and which goes against the ceramic piece! I always lube the rubber on the seal plate piece and also the impeller piece - it doesn't hurt and things go together a little nicer (... more nicely?) Screw the impeller back on, using the 7/16 wrench to hold the shaft - hand tight should be enough, but 1/8 turn extra with a wrench won't hurt (DO NOT GO 'CAVEMAN' on the impeller!!) Reassemble the pump as you did when changing the housing gasket (the housing gasket should still be good - as long as the visible part of it isn't flattened to the housing - & yes non petrolium grease will only help it). I think I've covered it all - however, there is thisthread wherein Tenax gives his experience and warnings.

    If you need any clarification on this - please ask
    p.s. Please !! be sure to have the power off to the pump when working on it... but you know that
    Luv & Luk, Ted

    Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries

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