autopilot install questions

[jmcst25]

Hello and thanks in advance

I recieved the Dig220 & sc60 unit today -- wow it's alot bigger / heavier than I thought. I was surprised that the bottom of the unit was open and not enclosed.

I have a couple questions:
Can you install the controller on vinyl siding (on the house) or do I have to cut out the vinyl siding or should I build a flat surface on a post? I don't think the wire to the cell would be long enough for me to mount inside.

Electricity -- do you use conduit to connect to the bottom electrical or do I need weather proof connectors? Where the wires come out confused me - I'm used to knock outs.

Is the directions for the wiring of the pump to run under the autopilot timer under "Connecting Pool Pilot to One-Speed Pump" on page 5/6 of the manual? Also my pump is a single speed (without a timer) on a 110 volt line. Should I wire the autopilot to 220 v or 110 v to run the pump?( I have a 220 line ther as well). Do I need to do anything with the existing switch - or just ensure it remains on?

On the cell -- I have 1.5 piping -- should I just use a 2 x 1.5 converter? Should I add quick connects union on each side?

Thanks again

[tenax]

well, i was waiting for someone who could answer all questions to respond to you but given no one has, i'll take a shot:

Can you install the controller on vinyl siding (on the house) or do I have to cut out the vinyl siding or should I build a flat surface on a post? I don't think the wire to the cell would be long enough for me to mount inside.

i wouldn't install against vinyl. units have fans so i think it's safe to assume it could get hot if the fan failed. i would recommend a gap behind it to aid cooling if possible

Electricity -- do you use conduit to connect to the bottom electrical or do I need weather proof connectors? Where the wires come out confused me - I'm used to knock outs.

My electrician wired mine with conduit only. it's in a pool shed though. if it was going to be outside, i would get some of those weather proof type grommets that fit within a conduit.

Is the directions for the wiring of the pump to run under the autopilot timer under "Connecting Pool Pilot to One-Speed Pump" on page 5/6 of the manual? Also my pump is a single speed (without a timer) on a 110 volt line. Should I wire the autopilot to 220 v or 110 v to run the pump?( I have a 220 line ther as well). Do I need to do anything with the existing switch - or just ensure it remains on?

my autopilot softtouch is 220 source. i assume your pump is switchable. cheaper operation and cooler i believe on your pump to convert your pump to 220 running. i don't know if the autopilot digital has the option to run on 110 or 220. almost 100% certain without my manual in front of me that the soft touch will only run on 220..should be in your manual

On the cell -- I have 1.5 piping -- should I just use a 2 x 1.5 converter? Should I add quick connects union on each side?

I have a 1.5 union on each side for quick connect and disconnect as you say. beauty of this is i made a pipe only that is the same length. i take the autopilot manifold inside over winter and put the straight pipe in place. what this does is a) absolutely makes sure there is no freeze damage risk of any kind over winter (there was one guy here who may have had his pipe crack in the winter..and when i start my pool in the spring with all the crap in it and i'm shocking with huge amounts of bleach, i leave the pipe on until the pool is relatively clear before putting the manifold in place for the season.

[jmcst25]

I have a 1.5 union on each side for quick connect and disconnect as you say. beauty of this is i made a pipe only that is the same length. i take the autopilot manifold inside over winter and put the straight pipe in place. what this does is a) absolutely makes sure there is no freeze damage risk of any kind over winter (there was one guy here who may have had his pipe crack in the winter..and when i start my pool in the spring with all the crap in it and i'm shocking with huge amounts of bleach, i leave the pipe on until the pool is relatively clear before putting the manifold in place for the season.

Terry

Excellent idea! I'll do this as well. Does high cl level effect the cell (i.e. if you shock for any reason -- do you need to do anything different with the autopilot.).

Also -- I appreciate all of your posts - I;ve learned alot from you.

Thanks

Jim

[tenax]

according to the autopilot info, if you shock with an autopilot, you should use a non chlorine shock. i would guess it might screw up the cell if chlorine based or there's something in a regular chlorine shock chemical versus the chlorine the an swg produces which is believe is a less complex chlorine than "bottled". at the least i would turn off my swg unit when shocking with chlorine bleach for example, but to be safe, i've emailed poolsean with autopilot to ask him to clarify and i'm sure he'll let me know by tomorrow or post the answer here himself. i only have needed to shock at start of season when i have my manifold swapped out for the tube. i remember once last year when i didn't pay attention and my pool went green in summer under my cover, but i'm sure it was before i got the autopilot..i don't recall having any concerns like this

[tenax]

poolsean sent me this..the sodium hypochlorite is on scented household bleach in bottle..giddyup!

You can use any type of shock with the AutoPilot. However, there are "recommendations" depending on your current water chemistry conditions:
If your Calcium Hardness is already high, you do not want to use Calcium Hypochlorite If your Cyanuric Acid is already high, you do not want to use granular or tabletized Tri-chlor, or granular Dichlor as both contain cyanuric acid.
If your pH is low, you do not want to use the above either, as both are rather low in pH.

Sodium Hypochlorite is always safe to use.
Potassium Monopersulfate, non-chlorine shock, is an oxidizer that temporarily gives you a high chlorine level, when tested, but quickly dissapates to a normal chlorine level within...15 minutes. This is mostly safe to use for shocking combined chlorine, but not for algae.

Avoid using any SODIUM BROMIDE based algaecides. These are "specialty" algaecides, mostly with MUSTARD or YELLOW in the name. Sodium Bromide will cause problems with maintaining a chlorine residual if used.
Neither of these shocks will harm the AutoPilot cell.

Hope this helps.
Sean

[jmcst25]

giddy up was right.

So in other words -- can you super chloringate with bleach with the autopilot? Is there anything special that you need to do - turn down cell.

Also -- is polyquat safe?

[tenax]

don't know about polyquat. lots of threads about it here if you search. in terms of super chlorinating with bleach, me? i'd turn off the autopilot...there's no point running the autopilot to produce more chlorine when you're super chlorinating with bleach.

[nater]

Howdy,
I've got the same unit (DIG 220, 60 series cell). I removed my old pool timer box and mounted the autopilot in the same spot on the vinyl wall. I had thick 2" felt washers (drummers use them on cymbal stands, you can get them at any Instrument shop) that I put between the unit and the wall to provide air space and cut down on noise from any potential fan vibration.

On my unit you can wire 110 or 220, just change some jumpers around according to the manual.

I shock with bleach if needed. I don't turn off the unit when I use bleach. I've found I only need to shock after big rainstorms, or large pool parties with kids involved (as a precaution). If you leave the unit on, the CL level will return to "normal" within a day or two and you don't run the risk of loosing all your CL because you forget to turn it back on. I've never measured any CC since installing the unit, so I don't shock very often.

I used 1.5" unions and 2" to 1.5" reducers to plumb in the unit.

Hope that helps