Once you try the good test kits, you'll understand why we use them instead of the test strips.
Once you try the good test kits, you'll understand why we use them instead of the test strips.
Why BBB? Because money can't buy happiness, but saving it sure can!
Get your chlorine up to 15-20 ppm, keep it there by checking every 3 hours - if you can't do that, check before and after work and add as necessary.
Keep filter running, DO NOT BACKWASH until your pressure rises 6+ lbs from your "clean" pressure - a dirty filter filters better than a clean filter.
Your pool is cloudy due to all the dead algae in it, this stuff is very fine and a sand filter will not catch it unless it's dirty.
Once you can barely see the floor of the pool, add floculant or clarifier, follow instructions on bottle. It will help clump the fine debris and settle them to the bottom, clearing up your water overnight - vac this stuff to waste if you can afford to waste your water (I can't), otherwise, vac it into a dirty filter (it's just a bit longer process doing it the filter way).
It takes about a week from start to finish to properly clean a gunky mess up.
After all is said and done and you have relatively clear water, you can make the decision whether or not the remaining dust in the pool is to be cleaned out through filtering in a dirty filter or whether you want to dump in another bottle of floculant - it all depends on the severity of the initial mess.
Get yourself an owl or string fishing line 2' above your pool to discourage your ducks - I had 3 this spring too and the fishing line really works, but because of the work involved in removing and replacing it I recently opted to get an owl.
Oh, and add some stabilizer once it's clear - 30 is relatively low, you should be between 40-60. Remember that it'll take about 4 days before it registers so don't overadd.
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