Pool Pump is not reliable

[KarlW65]

My pool pump - Hayward 1 HP is about 1 year old and was working fine until about Aug of last year. A strange problem is occuring where it takes 1-10 times to start the pump. There is plenty of water and suction and once it starts it works well.

I have replaced the starter capacitor that that seemed to help a bit now starts either the first time or within the first 5 times.

Any ideas?

I'm running it at 230 V and my meter indicates the volts are there, the ground connection is also good. I'm on a 50 AMP circuit and this behavior occurs regardless if the heater is on or not. There are no shorts, I'm on a 30 amp ground fault circuit at the pump and a 50AMP circuit at the panel.

Could it be a wiring problem? Perhaps the peak amps are not there? Yet it looks like the impeller engages sometimes?

Is it mechanical - I've recently replaced the impeller and it seems to rotate smoothly.

It is a DE system and the pressure is usually about 9 psi (24 sq ft filter).

The pump runs a bit hot but doesn't trigger the thermal sensor.

[tenax]

is that your normal pressure? sounds really low...wires are good to the switch? i had a switch go in mine..actually, one of the wires to the switch..looked fine but it was barely holding on and not supply enough current consistently to trigger the switch each time. mine's a sta-rite pump so may be a bit different but i imagine switches are similar affairs. does the switch have a contact on 2 sides that come together and are those contacts clean..or maybe corroded?

[KarlW65]

Pressure typically runs 9-13 psi, I clean it when it gets to 20. I'll check the switches, thanks for tip.

[tenax]

no problem, karl. best of luck..

terry

[KarlW65]

The switch looks clean -- I watched it while powering on.

In both cases it spins a few turns. If it works, the spinning accelerates otherwise it just stops. Either way the switch "engaged" (2 copper prongs push connection onto shaft)

[Poconos]

Sure sounds like the starter circuit switch. Even though it looks like it's closing, could be pitted contacts. Being an intermittant problem points to that too. Use some 400 or 600 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper (auto stores) or a small flat file (preferred) to dress the contacts. Usually they are silver and soft so you don't need to be agressive. See if that solves the problem.
Al

[tenax]

if you hadn't replaced the capacitor, i'd wonder about that as well..is there a way to wire it wrong..i.e. backwards or something.

[Poconos]

Starting capacitors are non-polarized so it doesn't matter which way they get wired. Usually when a capacitor fails it shorts or opens and doesn't become intermittent.
Al

[Ohm_Boy]

It would be worthwhile to connect a meter to the power wires at the motor, and watch it while it tries to start. That way, you can see if there is any significant voltage drop under load. If there is, the wiring to that point is suspect.

Always be careful with the wires exposed when the power is applied.

[anotherpyr]

Starting capacitors are non-polarized so it doesn't matter which way they get wired. Usually when a capacitor fails it shorts or opens and doesn't become intermittent.
Al

Good thing too considering you're dealing with an alternating current and that electrolytic capacitors can explode if the polarity is wrong.