Intellichlor IC 40 SWG

[iwannapool]

I just got up and running a few days ago with mine. I have yet to get enough CL to be generated that shows up in my test. I set it to 60% intially per the instructions and only detect a very light pink color in the Taylor CL test. I just bumped it up last night to run at 100% and will test again tonight.

Did you have it calibrated yet? My PB hasn't done this yet but says he will since the factory calibration is usually way off according to him.

[Jeffski]

The word 'calibrated' has not come up in our discussions so I don't know. I'll ask. What is your salt level? What lights are lit on your unit?

[iwannapool]

The word 'calibrated' has not come up in our discussions so I don't know. I'll ask. What is your salt level? What lights are lit on your unit?

All lights are on and solid green, not flashing green. I don't have a way to test for salt level yet so I can't tell if the good salt range indicator is accurate or not.

[CanuckPool]

I have the little brother IC20 and am just in the process of starting up my pool this year, so I don't have it on yet. Last year I started out with my salt on the 2900-3100 border and it was green light... at the end of the summer my unit was shifting between ADD and GOOD... I added another bag of salt and it stayed GOOD for a week and went back to ADD and intermittent GOOD which told me I was probably still on the border. I ignored it as the temps went down below 60 which I think is where it turns off.

So to answer your question.. the unit does produce chlorine between the 2500-2900 range. The 3400 is probably the optimum level.

I will let you know how it does this weekend.

[CanuckPool]

what is your pool temp... if it is below 60 I believe, it will give you the red light. If your temp is ok, and you are testing at over 3000ppm salt, and you still get red, then something is wrong with the unit, maybe its not getting enough power, or some connection is faulty.

[Jeffski]

Pool temp is 84. Heater is has been on for 3 weeks. Looking forward to that bill.

It has to be hooked up wrong, unless the SWG takes a week to realize the salt has jumped from 3100 to 3600. I don't know why it would take longer than a couple hours.

Nice surprise this morning though... the ADD light is on which means it is actually producing chlorine and working. The ADD light means the unit "thinks" the salt is between 2900-2500. It's testing at 3600.

I'll wait a couple more days, but I'm having the PB look at it before I add more salt. Unfortunately he hooked it up (and the first one) so I'm not sure how he'll be able to service his own mistake if he doesn't understand the problem. Oh well.

[CanuckPool]

We just got the heater up and running and the temp is at 74, the SWG is on and its reading Good @60%. I am going to take some water in tomorrow to get some readings. The PB added 3 bags of salt so i am guessing between last year its at about 3300-3500 ppm. It almost sounds like a sensor is faulty on your unit... or the salt readings are incorrect.

[iwannapool]

Pool temp is 84. Heater is has been on for 3 weeks. Looking forward to that bill.

It has to be hooked up wrong, unless the SWG takes a week to realize the salt has jumped from 3100 to 3600. I don't know why it would take longer than a couple hours.

Nice surprise this morning though... the ADD light is on which means it is actually producing chlorine and working. The ADD light means the unit "thinks" the salt is between 2900-2500. It's testing at 3600.

I'll wait a couple more days, but I'm having the PB look at it before I add more salt. Unfortunately he hooked it up (and the first one) so I'm not sure how he'll be able to service his own mistake if he doesn't understand the problem. Oh well.

It's either a faulty unit or as I said before these units have been poorly calibrated.