To get from 200 CH with fill water to 550 CH after evaporation and fill, it would take 550/200-1 = 175% of your pool water volume to achieve that. That's an awful lot of evaporation, but perhaps is what is happening in your case. If you have a bucket of water next to your pool, you can see how quickly the water evaporates. Assuming a 4.5 foot average depth for your pool, you would need evaporation of 4.5 * 1.75 = 7.9 feet of evaporation per year or 0.26" per day (actually double that or around 0.5" per day since there isn't much evaporation in the colder months).
Richard
95" is less than what parts of Arizona and Texas experiences over the year so it really depends on where you live. Check out this Link for where you live to get an estimate.
I experience about 60" with is a full pool volume over the year so my CH almost doubles over the year.
EDIT: I should modify this some by saying that with a pool cover, you can greatly reduce the amount of water lost and thus the buildup of calcium.
Last edited by mas985; 05-22-2007 at 04:24 PM.
Mark
Hydraulics 101; Pump Ed 101; Pump/Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Run Time Study; DIY Acid Dosing; DIY Cover Roller
18'x36' 20k plaster, MaxFlo SP2303VSP, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge, Solar, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater
What a great link! I've bookmarked that one! Thanks.
Hey Waterbear...I live in Northern California and evaporation is always a problem. I am wondering if you use a cover at all. I use those silly solar fish and they do seem to mitigate the evaporation quite a bit.
Jumping in here, my calcium is also high at 520-530. It is actually hard for me to get it to blue with the kit because the water in the tube starts globbing up as I add more reagent. I recently successfully lowered my alk from 130 to 90. My ph is hanging out in the mid 7's right now for much longer than it ever has. I have had high calcium for years now and my plaster is very smooth. I do get flakes from the returns sometimes, but the cleaner sucks those into the filter, except in the spa where I use the PoolBuster to remove them. It actually seems like there are fewer flakes this year than in previous years...
I am keeping an eye on everyone's borate experiences as well, but things look good now so I don't want to mess with the water chemistry too much.
Salinda
owner of ~35,000 gallon plaster IG pool/spa combo. Ikeric Dyna-Miser VS150 filter pump, 2 hp whisperflo spa jet pump, The Pool Cleaner 2x suction cleaner, Clean & Clear Plus 520 cartridge filter, Zodiac Clearwater LM2-40 SWG, Sta-rite 400k heater, solar heat pads and coils.
Salinda,
When you had CH of 525, TA of 130, and the pH was rising and hit 7.7, then your saturation index was around +0.6 so slight scaling was possible. With your current TA of 90 and a pH of 7.5, your saturation index is a much more manageable +0.21.
If you use a non-acidic source of chlorine such as chlorinating liquid or bleach, you can lower your TA even more if you want to, even to 50 ppm, and this should further reduce the tendency of your pool's pH to rise. You'll probably find that something like 70 ppm will be fine.
Think of this as an advantage to having a higher CH pool -- you can have a correspondingly lower TA and have calcium carbonate saturation in balance and be even better off in terms of having less pH rise.
Richard
Richard,
Thank you so much! It was your previous comments on the feasibility of low TA with high CH water that gave me the courage to try to fool with the chemistry. I'm glad I did! I test my water myself, but so does the pool store when I go for a visit. This is a local store that maintains pools on their service with liquid chlorine. They completely concurred and understood Ben's method for lowering TA. It sounds like they use this method too. I am steering friends who are looking for a good pool store to this one from now on! The owner was a little concerned about the TDS of the water, but the CH has changed so little in the 3 years I have owned the pool that I am not really concerned.
I use an swg for chlorine. Are you proposing that I turn that off and switch to bleach? I could probably repeat the lower ph/aerating method and get the TA down even further. If I do the adjustment for stabilizer that others do, I am already there.
Maybe we should move this to a new thread....
Salinda
owner of ~35,000 gallon plaster IG pool/spa combo. Ikeric Dyna-Miser VS150 filter pump, 2 hp whisperflo spa jet pump, The Pool Cleaner 2x suction cleaner, Clean & Clear Plus 520 cartridge filter, Zodiac Clearwater LM2-40 SWG, Sta-rite 400k heater, solar heat pads and coils.
Cisco,
Does your salt cell clog with scale build up? I have the same issues with CH and PH rising quickly. I go through 2-5 gallons of acid per week just to keep the PH down around 7.2-7.5. The SWG cell clogs with scale every day. I have to remove and clean with a power washer. MY Ch is also 600+ and there are scale flakes that come out of the return lines into the pool. I have considered bypasing the SWG as it is more problem than normal maitenance. However, I just feel like I am missing something and should not give up on it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
ndillion2,
I don't have a problem with scaling on the Cell.( other than the normal build up.) I clean it maybe once a month or so. Other than my CH being 550 all other chemicals are perfect. The pool itself is crystal clear.
Post all your chemical readings and maybe someone can better help with your problem.
Based on all the help I am going to raise my borates to see if it will slow my PH rise.Also I may airate the pool and get the TA down to 80. Thank you all for you information .
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