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Thread: two-speed with solar panels

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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Re: two-speed with solar panels

    Mark,

    I meant 1/2 gpms of the high speed pump not 1/2 gpms total. My bad for not clarifing that. I was guessing a low speed rate may act like a dirty filter.

    I understand your explanation, and believe the dirty filter is the problem.

    My system is a Fafco Sun Saver 5- 4x12s panels.

    pump- Waterway svl56 1hp 1.25sf Clean Filter Solar Off PSI 14psi
    Clean Filter Solar On PSI 16psi(17psi at first, then drops to 16 when all air is purged)
    Dirty Filter Solar Off PSI 20psi, time to backwash
    Dirty Filter Solar On PSI I need to verify this reading.

    Thanks for looking at my numbers.

    P.S. I agree with Cleancloths with the STICKY recommendation.

    Joe

  2. #2
    mas985's Avatar
    mas985 is offline Lifetime Member Whizbang Spinner mas985 3 stars mas985 3 stars mas985 3 stars
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    Default Re: two-speed with solar panels

    If the highest point of your solar panel is 20 ft above the pump, you will need at least 9 PSI to get to the top of the panels, 2 PSI of friction loss and another 2 PSI or so to close the valve for a total of 13 PSI. By my estimates, you will have about 12 PSI after the dirty filter or 1 PSI at the top of the panel which may not be enough to close the valve. I suggest cleaning after 4 PSI rise instead of 6.

    As for two speed, as long as the pressure does not drop below zero PSI when switching to low speed, the valve should stay closed. But this does require a proper prime at high speed so all of the air is purged from the system. If not, when the pump is switched to low speed, the valve may open.
    Last edited by mas985; 05-20-2007 at 07:41 PM.
    Mark
    Hydraulics 101; Pump Ed 101; Pump/Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Run Time Study; DIY Acid Dosing; DIY Cover Roller
    18'x36' 20k plaster, MaxFlo SP2303VSP, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge, Solar, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater

  3. #3
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    Default Re: two-speed with solar panels

    Thanks for the excellent explanation. It's quite clear and I agree with everything except one part: the high-speed priming to fill the system. To be fully honest, I think that either what you say is wrong, or there is some factor at play that we haven't discussed.

    It all boils down to this. To keep the valve closed, the pressure near the valve must be positive. I believe that pressure and flow completely describe the state of the system near the valve. To be concrete, suppose we have 2 psi and 40 GPM.

    Suppose there is a diverter at the top that when turned, instead of sending the water to the panels, it sends it into a wide pipe going straight up for 4.6ft, open at the top. The pipe is wide so dynamic loss is negligible. We divert the flow. What happens?

    In my book, the water goes up the open pipe and overflows, at an almost identical rate. The pressure near the valve is still about 2 psi (2 psi x 2.31 = 4.6 ft) and the flow is about the same. At the pump, there is no way of telling if the water is going through the panels or falls out of the pipe extension.

    So it would seem that our pump (at low speed) is capable of lifting water to the valve, actually a bit higher than that, with plenty of flow. This pump, according to you, is not able to prime the system. Why? Sure, there is a period of transition as the pipe fills up. But the pressure at the pump can never be higher than when the pipe is full. Surely there is dynamic head, but that is also always less than when the pipe is full.

    Then there is no need to prime at higher speed or power.

    Joe's (joenj) contribution is revealing and made me realize that in fact there is one more variable we can play with: the jet diameter.

    Just one foggy thought left for me. When my sand filter pressure goes up, needs a backwash, the panels do not stay full with water. You start to see bubbles in the returns and can hear the vacuum break opening/closing. This is my audiable alarm to backwash!

    As Joe's filter gets more and more clogged, the after-filter pressure drops, the pressure at the top drops, finally becomes negative (or near there, depending on how the valve is built) and the valve opens. What happens then? The water on its way down (which is "responsible" for the negative pressure) flows at a higher rate that the pump can supply, and air is sucked in. As the amount of air in the pipe increases, there is less water in the pipe, consequently less weight. The suction drops (that is, pressure increases), and the valve closes again. The frequency of opening/closing depends on the hysteresis of the valve, and possibly other factors.

    But the flow of the water on its way down can be reduced by narrowing the jet outlets. If you can live with the lower flow, that will make the system work again.

    This also means that as you get close to zero pressure at the top, the dynamic loss on the down pipes is no longer relevant when computing the savings due to a lower flow. On the up pipes, it still is. (Sorry, I should explain this more clearly, but it's dinner time.)

    I should say that it's VERY helpful to be able to have this kind of detailed discussions. I cannot thank enough all those involved.
    Last edited by semenzato; 05-21-2007 at 12:08 AM.
    30'x16' (irregular) indoor gunite/plaster pool, 10k gal,
    Autopilot DLG-220 with SC-48 cell, 3/4 HP recirc pump,
    solar panels, heat exchanger from 200 kBTU/hour Viessmann boiler

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    mas985's Avatar
    mas985 is offline Lifetime Member Whizbang Spinner mas985 3 stars mas985 3 stars mas985 3 stars
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    Default Re: two-speed with solar panels

    I deleted my original response because I realized that I could make this real simple.

    If you look at the head curve of a 3/4 HP two speed pump, you will notice that at 0 GPM it reaches a maximum head of about 20 feet or so. This means that with a pipe 20 ft in the air, no water will come out of the top, 0 GPM. There is a good chance you will burn up the pump in the process too.

    If the vacuum valve requires 2 PSI to close, then the maximum head loss possible is 15 feet (20-5). If your roof is lower than 15 ft, you may have a chance at closing the vacuum valve. If not, you are out of luck. Its that simple.

    Even if the valve does close, you need quite a bit of flow to push the air downwards to completely prime the pipe. So in reality, your are limited by much less than 15 ft.
    Last edited by mas985; 05-21-2007 at 12:12 AM. Reason: Simplified explaination
    Mark
    Hydraulics 101; Pump Ed 101; Pump/Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Run Time Study; DIY Acid Dosing; DIY Cover Roller
    18'x36' 20k plaster, MaxFlo SP2303VSP, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge, Solar, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 1969
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    Default Re: two-speed with solar panels

    Quote Originally Posted by mas985 View Post
    I deleted my original response because I realized that I could make this real simple.

    If you look at the head curve of a 3/4 HP two speed pump, you will notice that at 0 GPM it reaches a maximum head of about 20 feet or so. This means that with a pipe 20 ft in the air, no water will come out of the top, 0 GPM. There is a good chance you will burn up the pump in the process too.

    If the vacuum valve requires 2 PSI to close, then the maximum head loss possible is 15 feet (20-5). If your roof is lower than 15 ft, you may have a chance at closing the vacuum valve. If not, you are out of luck. Its that simple.
    I completely agree with this. 100%.

    Even if the valve does close, you need quite a bit of flow to push the air downwards to completely prime the pipe. So in reality, your are limited by much less than 15 ft.
    I see. If the flow is too low, you could end up with air permanently stuck in the pipe. This I believe. In fact, if you make the pipe wide enough, that will happen at any flow. You probably need a turbulent air-water mix to remove all the air. Which implies some minimum flow.

    But why is it bad to have air permanently stuck in the pipe? Mmmm... maybe I see now. With air stuck in the pipe, the potential energy of the water as it falls down is wasted instead of contributing to the suction. So you don't get the pressure reduction at the top. Ah ha.

    So that's the issue. You want to get rid of the air from the pipe to make the system work more efficiently. And that requires the high speed. Now I believe you.

    However, if the pressure near the top is relatively low, then you don't care, because in any case you never want to have negative pressure. So the 1-speed pump works fine, even with air in the pipe, as long as it barely makes it over the hump. Which is probably not a healthy situation.

    I think maybe I will stick to my 3/4 HP pump!

    Thanks again!
    30'x16' (irregular) indoor gunite/plaster pool, 10k gal,
    Autopilot DLG-220 with SC-48 cell, 3/4 HP recirc pump,
    solar panels, heat exchanger from 200 kBTU/hour Viessmann boiler

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