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Thread: What are the chemicals I need?

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  1. #1
    duraleigh Guest

    Default Re: What are the chemicals I need?

    Albert,

    You need to do some more reading. Go to poolsolutions.com and read the swimming pool tips and/or go to http://www.deh.enr.state.nc.us/ehs/chem.htm#ta

    It will answer every question you've asked to this point and many more.

  2. #2
    CarlD's Avatar
    CarlD is offline SuperMod Emeritus Vortex Adjuster CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars CarlD 4 stars
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    Default Re: What are the chemicals I need?

    Baking Soda raises Total Alkalinity, a buffer for pH, not pH itself. It can raise pH some, but not effectively. At the pool store "Total Alkalinity Raiser" contains 100% sodium bicarbonate--baking soda.

    Borax raises pH directly. Total Alkalinity goes up and down with pH but even though it goes up when you add Borax, you are only making go up with the pH, no more.

    Baking soda increases the Tot Alk relationship to pH instead.

    Soda Ash does both...

    Bleach is simply one name for Sodium Hypochlorite solution. It may also be called Liquid Chlorine or Liquid Shock at pool stores, but it's the same stuff. If you can get a better price for it at the pool store (and it does happen if you hit the sales just right--sometimes Branch Brook has "Liquid Shock" 12.5% for $2.99/gallon) buy it!

    You also need to measure CYA or Stabilizer or Conditioner... When you add this, it takes 48 hours to a week to hit its final level, so it's always better to use less than you estimate (I use 1/4 of my estimated amount), and see where it gets you, then repeat. CYA prevents chlorine breakdown. This is good in face of rapid depletion of chlorine by UV or contaminants, but can be bad by making the chorine unable to do its job. So for every level of CYA, there's a suggested Chlorine level--it's called "Ben's Best Guess Table".

    But chlorine pucks, usually Tri-Chor, release CYA as well, and tend to lower pH, so be sure that's what you need for your water before you use them. Di-Chlor powder has the same effect but doesn't release as much CYA.

    You can also use Dry Acid instead of Muriatic Acid. It's a lot easier and safer, although it's still dangerous and costs more. It can also be called "pH Down" or "Low 'n' Slo".

    BTW, LongBranch is a long ways from me--I'm on the Morris/Essex counties border.
    Last edited by CarlD; 04-22-2006 at 01:14 PM.
    Carl

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