Need a "BBB For Dummies" Tutorial

[chem geek]

With hot tubs there is the additional issue that the bacteria that causes hot tub itch, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, is more resistant to chlorine that most bacteria. I calculated that it would conservatively take 4 ppm FC at 20 ppm CYA to ensure killing this bacteria. That's about one week's usage of Dichlor and then switching to bleach (just keep track of how much Dichlor you are adding and when you've added enough for around 20 ppm or so FC then stop and switch to bleach alone).

The higher disinfecting chlorine level is about 5 times the mid-point in Ben's chart and is equivalent to 0.5 ppm FC if you didn't have any CYA (as opposed to most of Ben's chart which is equivalent to 0.1 ppm FC with no CYA). This higher level should also take care of oxidizing the "white stuff" you are seeing.

To reduce the smell of chlorine when using the hot tub, remove the cover about 5 minutes before you use the tub.

Richard

I forgot to add that with a hot tub you are sometimes fighting Combined Chlorine (CC) because some hot tubs are not exposed to sunlight. If that is your situation and you measure CCs consistently, then the regular (weekly) use of a non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate) will prevent this, but it will also measure as CC itself unless you use the Taylor R-0867 reagent (found in kit K-2041). This same advice also applies to indoor pools where keeping CCs low is difficult.

[tphaggerty]

I forgot to add that with a hot tub you are sometimes fighting Combined Chlorine (CC) because some hot tubs are not exposed to sunlight. If that is your situation and you measure CCs consistently, then the regular (weekly) use of a non-chlorine shock (potassium monopersulfate) will prevent this, but it will also measure as CC itself unless you use the Taylor R-0867 reagent (found in kit K-2041). This same advice also applies to indoor pools where keeping CCs low is difficult.

Richard, I think you have said in the past that shocking/superchlorinating doesn't really breakdown the CC. Is this correct? Is that why you are recommending using non-CL shock as opposed to super-CL?

Would exposing the spa to several hours of sun breakdown the CC? (Not sure I want to add YAC - yet another chemical - to the small amount of water in my spa).

[chem geek]

You can certainly try super-chlorinating to reduce CC, but without sunlight exposure you may find it difficult. So yes, super-chlorinating with the top kept off and exposure to sunlight during peak hours around noontime would be best. The non-chlorine shock suggestion is only a fallback if the "standard" methods of chlorine and sunlight are not available.

Of course, if you're not measuring CCs then you have nothing to worry about anyway. Start by measuring the CC level first, then only if there's a problem (> 0.5 ppm) try options to lower the CCs.

Richard

[simsjim]

This is all VERY helpful info. I learn much here.

I'll chime in on one question - running the pump 24/7.

There is no immediate ill-affect to running 24/7- aside from the excessive use of electricity. Which, personally, I don’t like doing....but just MHO. Also, one could debate that continual running of the motor could shorten the life expectancy of the pump.

You really only need to run the pump long enough to turn all of the water in you pool over once daily. That said, you can use the GPM from your pump’s flow curve to calculate how many gallons your pump moves each hour. Then - given your specific installation - determine how long it takes to turn over the entire pool . Or just take the easy way out, and run it for somewhere between 6-12 hrs/day. I suspect the average is 8 hours/day.

As far as remembering to turn the pump on/off. There is hope. Intermatic makes a series of outdoor timers that are perfect for this chore. Select the one that best suits your needs (there are single circuit models for just pumps, and if you have a heater there are two circuit models that coordinate the controls for each. Prices range from 40-90 bux at Home Depot. Or you can get them from a pool store for $150 . There is also a simple outlet/ plug-in model, but I personally didn’t think it looked robust enough.

More info at about Intermatic timers at http://www.intermatic.com/Default.as...4&cid=66&did=4

Good luck with the BBB method. I've dabbled in it at spring time to start-up with remarkable success, but always revert back to overpriced pool-specific chemicals as the season goes on. Just me getting confident enough in my own administering of the chemicals. One of these years, I'll take the full plunge and go ALL BBB. The copious testimonies about how successful, easy and inexpensive it is are convincing me its the way to go !

Peace,
James

[tphaggerty]

Update on BBB in spa. I am still using it successfully. Earlier in this thread I had said that I was still getting "white stuff" around the fittings - white and sort of like dry peanut butter in consistency, definitely "growing" over time, plus a somewhat sour smell to the water (very slight). All this was happening with good chems all around, no CCs, good FC/PH/TA.

I tried "shocking" several times to no real avail. I finally tried some Spa Perfect, an enzyme based conditioner. I had stopped using this a while ago when I found this forum as I tried to reduce extraneous chem usage as much as possible. But, I had bought several bottles on sale, so I had it around and decided to give it another try.

Surprise, surprise, it worked GREAT. Not only did it eliminate the "white stuff", the water smells much better (clean and almost odorless) AND the spa just feels cleaner. So, now I am using BBB in the spa with an occasional shot of Spa Perfect.