Solar panel installation question

[NWMNMom]

We have a diverter system and plumbed all of ours so that it runs from diverter to a central pvc that Ys off to simultaneous INs and a simultaneous OUT that runs back to the diverter and return. We have ours mounted on a rack system that stands upright on the north side of our pool as we have no left over southern exposure between the pool and the woods.

[matt4x4]

take encaps off, look though each header, the one you can look through gets the caps (where the water makes a u turn), the one you can't look through gets the input/output connectors.

If you do connect more than 2 units, it is beneficial to remove the baffles (some units allow for that) in the input/output ends of all, install the input connector there and a cap, install the other cap at the far end, with the output connector, feed into the next etc.

[cleancloths]

I looked through both ends and can see clear daylight through both ends, so I can only conclude the panels don't have the discs they talked about. Anyway, I just came in from repiping the sytem. I have the two panels next to each other with a flexible connector tying them together at both ends. I am feeding water into one tied header and withdrawing from the tied heater at the other end. Seems to be working quite well this way.

[CarlD]

CleanCloths has gotten to the nub of the matter: An increase from 12kBTU per hour to 18kBTU per hour. While it's true that more flow generally means more heat, I suspect you had blocked off half your panel and therefore were only getting half the heat. Replumbing doubled the length and with it the resistence and GPM, but increased the heat absorbed.

That's my guess. Normally that "disk" or valve forces the water coming in one port to go the length of the panel one half (1' width) then come down the other. Opening the valve allows the water to flow through the end tube without hitting the panels.

Bottom line: You BTU/Hour added to the pool jumped 50%. And BTUs are REALLY what heating is all about, not temperature.

[cleancloths]

Finally got the SunGrabber folks on the phone today. They told me I would know if the disc was there as it has a big red handle to control it and you cannot see through the header. They tell me I was shipped the inground units rather than the above ground units - which is fine by me since I have an inground pool, just did not want to pay more for what looked like the same panels.

I have the panels tied in parallel now and they are working great.

[matt4x4]

I would recommend a slight change in the setup of the panels,
on the supply end of the first, I would cap the end of the header that is currently tied to the second - this will force all water through panel 1 to the opposing end, where you should then push through the short pipe to panel 2 and cap that side of the input header, forcing all the water through the second panel then back to the pool.
it would eliminate tying the panels together at BOTH the INPUT AND OUTPUT headers, which can cause unforseen problems and or performance issues (not saying it will, but a chance exists.).

[cleancloths]

I had it the way you suggest at one point because I needed another flex connector to connect it in parallel. Why do you feel hooking them in series is better than hooking them in parallel? I understand that if you hook them in series you will generate hotter water, but by hooking them in parallel you extract more total BTU's which is the name of the game.

What "unforseen" problems do you think might happen?

[matt4x4]

The 2 Panels are designed to run in series (by manufacturer) utilizing a standard pool pump, there are many smaller variances such as pump size, GPH , but that is the basic starting point.
It has something to do with the cross sectional area of all the small channels in the panel adding up to the cross sectional area of your input/output pipes.
Running in parallel is like taking your 1.5" pipe, changing it part way through to a 2" pipe, then back to a 1.5" pipe - this can cause inefficiencies such as stagnant or "slow" areas on the panels where there is slightly more resisitance in some of the small channels due to production imperfections (water takes the path of least resistance).
If a portion of your panels malfunctions (plugs up) you will see that immediately on your pressure gauge if they're in series, however, the only way to tell when in parallel is to physically touch the panels and feel for hot channels since your 1.5" outlet is going to dictate your backpressure in that setup scenario.
BTU should be the samel whether you run in parallel or in series since your surface area exposed to the sun is the same thus collecting the identical amount of energy) and your pump is pushing identical GPH and heat transfer to water at any temperature (outside of steam) is constant.

I'm no expert, but have had numerous discussions on this topic with a friend of mine who is prior to both him and me installing these systems on our pools.

Bottom line is to do what the manufacturer recommends since they went through all the design work and testing prior to bringing the product to market.