Trouble getting CC to zero.

[huskerfan]

I have not put my solar cover on at all this year, as you shouldn't have them on when the pool is at shock level. Normally, without shocking, the cover is off daily for a minimum of 3 hours; then back on before nighttime.

In the last 3 hours my tc dropped from 17 to 13.5. I just added enough bleach to get it back to 17 again, as it's almost 90 today, super windy and super hot, so it won't be long and it'll be going down again. The good news is I've went from .6cc down to .5cc or less as I have no way of checking closer unless I fill my test tube to the 25ml line and check it that way - but I don't want to waste that many drops of my 0871 as I haven't been able to order a refill kit yet as the cart and checkout are not working on poolsolutions currently for me.

When I raised my tc to 19 last night - it was just border line of dropping my iron out of solution and it turned my water just a real faint yellow color. My pool's crystal clear now, so I think I'll stay around that 17 range for another day or so and see what happens. Does that sound reasonable to you? I love my de filter, it really helps me out with my iron issue too.

The last few days have been more overcast outside, but today's really sunny, so maybe that's the key to dropping my cc down. Thanks for pointing that out. I'd love to get it to 0, but if not possible for any reason, at least we can still swim with it at .4 or lower.

Do you have any other suggestions? Today is the day for my weekly poly 60 treatment - would you go ahead and add it, or wait until I get through with my cc issue?

A year ago I would have been stressed out over this - but I've learned a great deal from the forum and it's moderators and members. I actually feel kinda "professional" using my kit from Ben, lol! I love the BBB method, although I wish I didn't have to deal with iron everytime I fill, but at least I know how to manage it. Haven't dealt with cc much yet, so just wanted someone else's opinion on dealing with it. Thanks again.

[chem geek]

Donya,

I wouldn't worry so much about your CC level. I do think that with exposure to sunlight that it will reduce over time. As for the PolyQuat 60 addition, I would not add that when you have high chlorine since the chlorine breaks down the PolyQuat 60. The good news is that the broken polymer is still effective against algae (according to the manufacturer that I contacted) but there's not much sense in consuming so much chlorine at this point. If I were you, I would stop keeping the chlorine so high and just let it drop with sunlight. Just keep it above 5 ppm FC to ensure you have enough to finish off the CCs.

Are you adding PolyQuat 60 weekly just as an insurance policy to prevent algae in case your chlorine level gets too low? You shouldn't need to use a weekly algaecide unless chlorine levels drop too far (relative to CYA level). Also, if you have been regularly using Borates to raise your pH, you might consider raising their level to 30-50 ppm since that will also inhibit algae and you won't have to keep adding PolyQuat 60 which isn't cheap. See this thread for more info about the Borates.

The CCs aren't a problem unless you notice a strong smell that prevents you from enjoying your pool. Keep us posted with what happens as sunlight starts to hit the pool.

Richard

[huskerfan]

When I opened this year is the first time I've ever had to use 20 mule team borax to raise my ph. Normally I never have to adjust my ph- -- maybe a cup of muratic acid to bring it down a tad once a month or so. My ph stays pretty balanced. I've been thinking about a SWG, but other than the additional setup expense, I hate to use muratic acid. I had some breathing/lung problems the way it is in the past and don't like to handle it any more than I need to. I went to our pool store's pool school the other night and they are pushing Bio Guard's mineral springs. They have a supplement you add that's supposed to take care of the ph issue, but don't know... (I only went because they give great door prizes, lol. I do buy a couple things from them - and need them to test my iron for me. They are fine with me using my methods, and I don't say anything in front of their other customers about it. They need to make a living too, just not off me )

I use the poly 60 as a preventative measure. I get it online for $11 a qt. Probably wouldn't need it - but I use it anyway as long as I can get it cheaper. Last year I only paid $7 a quart. My water is always crystal clear and awesome to swim in, so will keep up my regular routine with it after my chlorine drops to normal again. I know there isn't a "perfect" pool, just wish my cc was 0. At least I finally broke that .6 level after 6 days, so am pleased with that. Thanks again for your time in replying and the advice, appreciate it! My landscaping is done so this summer will be pure enjoyment!

[chem geek]

Your TA is a little on the high side which can lead to a tendency of your pH to rise, though you seem to find it pretty stable. The next time you find your pH too low on opening, if your TA is high then instead of adding Borax, do aeration instead. That will cause the pH to rise with no change in TA. Though Borax doesn't add any carbonates, it will have the TA rise when it makes the pH rise (because they go together). It is only aeration that actually removes carbonates from the pool via carbon dioxide outgassing.

I wouldn't worry too much about the rising pH in SWG pools since keeping the TA low and using Borates does seem to help a lot. Yes, you probably will need to add acid more frequently than you do now, but it won't be as often as with most SWG pools where people don't know about the low TA and use of Borates. Check out the various threads on rising pH in SWG pools to see people's experiences and how much acid they need to add. It might be tolerable for you.

Anyway, it sounds like you've got a pretty nice and easy situation currently, except for dealing with iron in your fill water. You might consider using a water softener filter for the water -- you might even have one already for your house. Also, if you use a pool cover (such as the solar cover you mention), then that will significantly cut down your loss of chlorine during the day, will keep your pool warm at night and I'll bet that it's use is why you don't see much of a pH rise even with the higher TA.

As for BioGuard Mineral Springs, the "Beginnings" added at startup is just salt (sodium chloride), Boron salt (i.e. borates), and acid (inorganic and organic). The "Renewal" is just the same thing but with less salt and more Boron salt (borates) and inorganic acid and a little aluminum salt. In California, the Beginnings is just salt with a small amount of Cyanuric Acid (CYA) while in Renewal there is no Boron salt (borates) in the product and instead there is sodium bisulfate (acid). This dry acid adds sulfates to your water and high levels can cause problems, particularly with plaster (but we don't know exactly how high so generally just try avoiding adding too many sulfates) and I don't know if there are any issues with sulfates and vinyl pools (probably not). We do know that high levels of chloride and sulfates together are corrosive to stainless steel (especially with high chlorine levels).

The only thing in the product that helps with the rise in pH is the Boron Salt (borates). The products still add acid (at least partly to neutralize the borate that is alkaline) that is probably sodium bisulfate even outside of California (what is called "inorganic acid"). California identifies boric acid as a hazardous waste so that's probably why it's not put into the BioGuard products sold in California (it probably requires special labeling and/or handling requirements). If BioGuard were really on the ball, they would recommend a low TA setting with their system. I can't find their MS-10 or MS-20 product manual so don't know what TA they recommend.

You can check the price of the BioGuard Mineral Springs and compare it to the equivalent of adding Borax and dry acid (and salt) that you could purchase separately.

Richard

[duraleigh]

Huskerfan,

I'm a little confused by your CC's? How are you measuring .4 and .6 values? I am not aware of a test that precise.

[chem geek]

Dave,

The FAS-DPD chlorine test can measure Free Chlorine and Combined Chlorine each to 0.2 ppm since using a 25 ml sample size has one drop of titrant measure 0.2 ppm (the 10 ml sample size has one drop measure 0.5 ppm). You add 2 dippers of R-0870 powder which makes the sample turn pink if free chlorine is present, then add R-0871 dropwise until the sample turns colorless. The count of drops is Free Chlorine. Now you add 5 drops of R-0003 and the sample will turn pink if combined chlorine is present, then add R-0871 dropwise until the sample turns colorless. The count of drops (after adding the R-0003) is Combined Chlorine.

Richard

[duraleigh]

Thanks, Richard,

I had fogotten about doing that test with 25ml. Makes perfect sense to me now. (Tho, I'd have to say, that precision seems like a little bit of overkill)

Nevertheless, I understand now.