Adding Solar Panels to PVC plumbing

[CarlD]

Any pool store should carry it--it's called TigerFlex but there are probably other brands. You are more likely to find it there than in Lowes--plus there are 45 deg and 90 deg fittings.

[tphaggerty]

Flex can also be bought fairly cheap on line. Check out flexpvc.com. I was able to find a lot of fittings out of season on that site and some odd ones as well (long connectors for example).

[LindaGL]

OK gang - I found a local source for flexible PVC, at $3 a foot. That is a LOT more than the online sources I have found, but none of them will automatically give me the shipping costs so I can't determine the final cost. The stuf isn't so much heavy (at least in the small quantities I am looking at - I don't need 100'!) as it is bulky. Will the price double once shipping is added in? If so, I'll stick with local. Otherwise, I think I will buy online.

As for the actual plumbing - it has been recommended that I add in some bypass valves, etc. So I am thinking that while it would be the easiest way, it ISN'T a good idea to just run a line from the filter to the panel, and from the panel to the inlet. Instead, I want a valve on the line that runs from the filter to the panel, and a valve on a line that runs from the panel back to the pool. And that means I also need to have a line that will run from the filter direct to the pool, so that if I use the bypass valves I can still get water running. Is that right?

I can't draw a picture (is there a trick to getting the typed characters to line up correctly?), but it would involve two "T" joints on the line that runs from the filter to the inlet, and off of each "T" would be a line, with a valve, that runs to the panel. To bypass the panel, I would close the two valves.

Does that sound reasonable?

Thanks!
Linda (feeling better about this process)

[cleancloths]

Why not just hard pipe it? It will be cheaper and more durable.

[LindaGL]

Most of it *will* be hard-piped, but I have to go around a couple of corners, and instead of using multiple elbows, etc, I was going to use the flex.

Linda

[tphaggerty]

As I always do, I suggest going to powermat.com, the site is a bit complicated to navigate, but it has excellent tutorials on almost everything solar.

But, the "normal way" to hard plumb solar is to use a 3 way valve to direct the return to the solar or to bypass. You would also have ball valves on both the solar source and return so you can completely bypass solar if you need to. On most permanent installations, the 3 way valve is either a "leaky" valve or it has a hole drilled into it to allow the solar to "drain back" when it is not in use (it is really not a good idea to leave your solar system full of water when it is not circulating. Not only do you have a significant amount of weight on the roof, but the water can superheat and really stress the panels and plumbing). Finally, in many installations, the solar source and return are "T"ed together with a ball valve in order to be able to fine tune the amount of water/pressure that goes to the solar.

[kwong]

I'd be interested in seeing some before and after install pics .. interested myself ... but have a small backyard .. space is somewhat tight ... but am considering the powermat product line .. but building 4' (tall) x 20 ' (wide) vertical on custom installed posts (similar to fencing posts) from the ground level .. just to catch the southerly sunshine (in my backyard) with custom hardpiped into return ... (still in planning stage). .. currently have purchased upgraded 18'x48" AG round Dolfino Simpe set .. will swap with current 12' x 30" round AG.

Cheers,