Church pool RE-construction

[GutierrezPlastering]

New question, same project... Subject: Plastering The last step before refilling the pool will be a replastering job. We're considering doing the sandblasting ourselves to save money. Any comments on that idea? How about it, Mr. Gutierrez? Also, there are a couple of large(12"-15" dia.) spots where the plaster is worn away, exposing the gunite. We figured to apply a thin coat of hydraulic cement to those areas, but one plaster company I talked to said it wasn't necessary, that their 3/16" final coat would be sufficient. Does that sound right or should we go ahead and make a hard, smooth surface below the plaster coat? Thanks
Hal

Make sure you wear the proper protective gear when sandblasting because wow it can hurt, and the dust debri also is a hassle if you inhale it, it can be fatal later. Where those worn plaster spots are, just pour reguar portland cement mixed with some sand and then roughen it up a bit with a brush or sponge. I recommen filling it before plastering because if you fill it the day of the plaster with regular plaster you may see what i call moisture spots under water and look a bit blotchy the reason being is the plaster material is not ment to go on so thick so moisture is still trapped underneath

[Sumo1]

Well, the pool renovation job is moving along but I need some advice. We'll be coring 3 new holes in the pool, two for returns and one drain. Will a 2 1/2" core be large enough to pass a 2" pipe? How about a 2" core for a 1 1/2" pipe? I know that seems like "Who's buried in Grant's tomb?" but I'd rather ask a dumb question than screw up the job.
Next question: We're setting new skimmers (level, which they weren't before) and were wondering, is there an ideal distance for the waterline to be from the bottom of the coping? We'll install 6" tiles so does that automatically make the answer 3" or can that vary? Thanks for your help!
Hal

[Sumo1]

Still no replies!? Come on, ladies and gents, I need y'all. Tomorrow's a pool work day and we've got sooo many questions
Question of the day: After we've patched any worn spots in the plaster layer (with white portland), we won't have enough money to plaster it this year. If we use 2-part epoxy paint to coat and seal the pool interior, how long would that treatment be expected to last? Two years or three? That would give us time to raise another $25K for plastering. Would that paint then cause huge problems for the plasterers? Or should we then just keep on using epoxy paint? Thanks again!
Hal

[Sumo1]

Still no replies!? Come on, ladies and gents, I need y'all. Tomorrow's a pool work day and we've got sooo many questions
Question of the day: After we've patched any worn spots in the plaster layer (with white portland), we won't have enough money to plaster it this year. If we use 2-part epoxy paint to coat and seal the pool interior, how long would that treatment be expected to last? Two years or three? That would give us time to raise another $25K for plastering. Would that paint then cause huge problems for the plasterers? Or should we then just keep on using epoxy paint? Thanks again!
Hal

Let's try again-HELP!

[Sumo1]

When we pour new coping for this pool, do we have to use those plastic control joint strips I see on some pools? Underneath those strips, is there just a regular troweled control joint? Suggestions or discussion? thanks
Hal

[waste]

Hal, it is my understanding that a concrete deck will crack, reguardless as to what you do. The plastic strips are just a bigger 'control' joint. My source of this info is in the public domain, you can go to www.straightdope.com or go to a good library and read the book itself (he's published 5 and it's in one of them - sorry I can't recall which one the ? was in, but if I get the time - I'll look through my copies)

[Sumo1]

RECONSTRUCTION UPDATE::
Well, the church pool is coming along slowly, in fits and starts, but coming along nonetheless. We've had so little participation from the congregation that we've given up hope of filling the pool at all this summer. We thought it would be "start the renovation and they will come" but we were mistaken. Worked on the pool this morning and we were three. Mike and I are always there but we never know if anyone else will show. Regardless, we're grateful for the help we get and we feel good about the progress so far.

We've now set all 6 skimmers in their bed of white portland and they're all level within about 5/8". Not perfect but close enough, I hope. Our target waterline is about 4" in the skimmer throat, so I think we're OK. The top wall/cap/coping is all formed, except a section where we're pouring gravel in to fill the old diving well. We used a bobcat to put 36 tons of "57s" gravel in the pool but shoveling it from where it fell into an evenly spread layer over the diving well is going a whole lot slower than anticipated. Gee, imagine that!! Holes have been drilled for the rebar "mesh" that will be constructed over the gravel bed before the 4" of concrete is poured. The original single main drain has been teed and the two 2" pipes are sticking up well above the gravel bed. I've found a source for new anti-vortex drain covers but WHAT GOES UNDER THE COVER AND ATTACHES TO THE 2" DRAIN PIPES?? I don't know but I need to have this problem solved and in hand this week. The forming and pouring are subcontracted but we had to set the skimmers ourselves.

Between the main drains is a 1 1/2" pipe for the hydrostatic valve. We were able to re-use the old one, with addition of a new O ring. All these roughed in pipes have to be brought down to final level before the diving well concrete is poured.

Next will be electrical work (subcontracted) to move the electrical panel more than 10' from the edge of the pool and to run all new wiring inside the pump house, adding exhaust fans and individual kill switches for each pump.

We'll bring in a backhoe to dig good beds for the new pool plumbing, from the new skimmers all the way to the pumps. For some reason, the pump house roof was built to run off toward the pool so we're going to reverse the roof pitch, adding vents as well.

We met with a fence contractor today, as the old fence was only 4' high and won't meet any codes today. That could be a big number ($) as we're looking at around 500' of 5' high chain link with two 4' wide entry gates. We're also adding a 16' ramp for handicap accessability.

This will have to do for now, as I'm tired of thinking about the pool today. Will get some sleep and continue thinking about it tomorrow. I think about it nearly all the time. I hope I don't sound jaded because I'm really enjoying this project.

Hal