I would attribute it to the borax. Since I have brought my borates up to 50 ppm I have used so little acid in my pool and my pH just stays at 7.6!
I would attribute it to the borax. Since I have brought my borates up to 50 ppm I have used so little acid in my pool and my pH just stays at 7.6!
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
Thank you for the replies. I haven't measured TA for about a year. At the time it was in the desired range but barely. I can't remember if it was at the high end or the low end. I assumed it would not change.
I changed the pool water shortly before I added the SWG so the CYA from the dichlor is very low. I remember measuring it. The pool gets little or no sunlight so that works.
It's probably the borax then. So that will work fine for a while, but when I finally will have to add acid, I suppose I will have to add a lot!
I am wondering if there is something leaking into the loop that is providing the negative ions while slowly dissolving some important part of the pool :-|
30'x16' (irregular) indoor gunite/plaster pool, 10k gal,
Autopilot DLG-220 with SC-48 cell, 3/4 HP recirc pump,
solar panels, heat exchanger from 200 kBTU/hour Viessmann boiler
It is partly true that the Borax will buffer the pH so that when you do add acid you will be adding more than if the Borax were not there, but as waterbear points out there are reasons why the total amount of acid needed will be lower. Borax has a double-effect -- it's both a pH buffer AND an algaecide and the latter allows for less chlorine and less chlorine means less SWG on-time and less pressure on making pH rise.
Your TA will eventually drift downward and the pH will slowly drift upward. Anyway, if you CAN test your TA (and CYA level, if you can, though TA is more important), that would be helpful -- not to solve any problem, since there isn't any, but to help confirm or refute what I believe is going on. I always want to compare the "theory" against real-world behavior.
Thanks,
Richard
30'x16' (irregular) indoor gunite/plaster pool, 10k gal,
Autopilot DLG-220 with SC-48 cell, 3/4 HP recirc pump,
solar panels, heat exchanger from 200 kBTU/hour Viessmann boiler
Wow, that's actually high (for SWG pools) so that must mean that the Borax is REALLY potent for cutting down the pH rise (and that's what waterbear sees as well). It may also be that the very still air in an indoor pool helps so the aeration may be very, very low. It's interesting, in any case. Thanks a lot for the update!
Richard
The pool is almost always covered with a solar blanket (bubble wrap). This is a necessity or the humidity in the room would be unbearable. I suppose this could prevent the hydrogen from being released, and perhaps it forms bubbles under the cover which are readsorbed in time?
Thanks!
Luigi
30'x16' (irregular) indoor gunite/plaster pool, 10k gal,
Autopilot DLG-220 with SC-48 cell, 3/4 HP recirc pump,
solar panels, heat exchanger from 200 kBTU/hour Viessmann boiler
Maybe. But others with covers still experience a rise, but those are outdoor pools. Maybe your bubble pack is different and as you say it keeps a layer of higher concentration carbon dioxide under it, but the gas does have to go somewhere in any event.
Another reason you probably don't see as much rise is that as an indoor pool your SWG is running far lower than in an outdoor pool because there is no sunlight to breakdown the chlorine. This is partly why we think the Borates also help -- not only as a pH buffer, but also as an algaecide to lower the production of chlorine. When waterbear added Borates, he found he could lower the output of the SWG.
Anyway, lots of reasons -- don't know which ones are most important -- but it's good news at any rate. We do know that we have at least two solutions that both work and work even better together -- lower TA and use of Borates. That's good enough for now.
Richard
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