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Thread: leveling

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Default Re: leveling

    Hi, I can answer question number 2. The 1 inch applies to an overall slope from one side to the other. This could happen due to ground settling. You are best off starting as level as you can possibly get. The wall will install and stay in the bottom rail so much easier, you would not believe the difference. Take three bottom plates, the outer two the same level and the center down a quarter of an inch. You will notice this when installing the wall. You may get past it but it will be noticeable. If the center post is down a full inch you will not get past it without the wall falling over. Take as much time as you need to make the bottom rail and footplates as level as you can possibly get them. The rest of the install will go so much smoother and the pool will look so much better. Worth every minute, day or week.

    Best of luck, Dennis
    AG pool installer
    Arizona

  2. #12
    Join Date
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    Apache Junction, Az
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    Default Re: leveling

    Here another thread that might help.

    http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=4169
    AG pool installer
    Arizona

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    82

    Default Re: leveling

    Quote Originally Posted by hrsdennis View Post
    Hi, I can answer question number 2. The 1 inch applies to an overall slope from one side to the other. This could happen due to ground settling. You are best off starting as level as you can possibly get. The wall will install and stay in the bottom rail so much easier, you would not believe the difference. Take three bottom plates, the outer two the same level and the center down a quarter of an inch. You will notice this when installing the wall. You may get past it but it will be noticeable. If the center post is down a full inch you will not get past it without the wall falling over. Take as much time as you need to make the bottom rail and footplates as level as you can possibly get them. The rest of the install will go so much smoother and the pool will look so much better. Worth every minute, day or week.

    Best of luck, Dennis


    That's exactly what I thought, but I didn't know the details of WHY it needs to be so perfectly level, other than aesthetic appearance.

    Thanks for the info. Work begins tomorrow, if the ground has dried out some.

  4. #14
    matt4x4 is offline Lifetime Member Verb Herder matt4x4 2 stars matt4x4 2 stars
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    Default Re: leveling

    Just an FYI - I would go with the self standing post only because your thread seems to imply your wall is allready set up ("leaning the 2x6 against a wall") - unless you meant the house wall.....which just means a lot of back and forth walking in my opinion..(far side being 24+ feet to the 2x6, 24+ feet back to wall to rest it again - those numbers add up too quickly)
    Do NOT set your base rail and wall up before the ground is levelled, you'll just make it three times as hard on yourself.

    Another reason I'd use a plated or tripod bottom is that the 2x6 can easily sink 1/2 inch into loose soil in a particular spot but right next to it may be dead on level where the tripod or plate method somewhat averages over a larger area eliminating the measuring in the aforesaid soft spot which could be a mis-reading.

    about a year ago I wrote up an extensive thread on an AG pool install, where I mentioned that I used 2-3" compacted Screenings (crusher run) where my wall sits - this stuff is ideal for getting a nice perfectly level wall base and beats setup on dirt any day - of course, you have to go deeper at first, then bring the base level back up for your wall to sit on - if going that route, make sure you calculate that into your equation.
    It does make levelling easier since excavation is done to a rough level and brought back to level using screenings which are WAY easier to work with.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    82

    Default Re: leveling

    Quote Originally Posted by matt4x4 View Post
    Just an FYI - I would go with the self standing post only because your thread seems to imply your wall is allready set up ("leaning the 2x6 against a wall") - unless you meant the house wall.....which just means a lot of back and forth walking in my opinion..(far side being 24+ feet to the 2x6, 24+ feet back to wall to rest it again - those numbers add up too quickly)
    Do NOT set your base rail and wall up before the ground is levelled, you'll just make it three times as hard on yourself.

    Another reason I'd use a plated or tripod bottom is that the 2x6 can easily sink 1/2 inch into loose soil in a particular spot but right next to it may be dead on level where the tripod or plate method somewhat averages over a larger area eliminating the measuring in the aforesaid soft spot which could be a mis-reading.

    about a year ago I wrote up an extensive thread on an AG pool install, where I mentioned that I used 2-3" compacted Screenings (crusher run) where my wall sits - this stuff is ideal for getting a nice perfectly level wall base and beats setup on dirt any day - of course, you have to go deeper at first, then bring the base level back up for your wall to sit on - if going that route, make sure you calculate that into your equation.
    It does make levelling easier since excavation is done to a rough level and brought back to level using screenings which are WAY easier to work with.

    Sorry, I'm buildng my pool next to an 8' cinder block wall that runs the length of my property.. that's what I meant by wall...


    THanks for all the advice. I have a feeling you guys have made this process a whole lot easier for me.

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