Read this thread. It might help answer your question!Originally Posted by salinda
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=131
NOT rushing this test and swirling the vial after each addition of reagent #3 will help!
I have a ps233 that I purchased late in the season last year. I only used it once at the end of September. I wish I had known about the new kit coming this year because I have a swg and really need the salinity test in the spring after a full winter of rain.
Anyhow, my question is really about the alkalinity test...
The sample starts pink with pink floaties in it before adding the r-0012. When I added the r-0012, there was a point at which the sample turned violet (40 drops). Next it went into a phase when it turned blue but the floaties were still pinkish (49 drops). At 52 drops, even the floaties are blue. What point am I actually measuring at?
Read this thread. It might help answer your question!Originally Posted by salinda
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=131
NOT rushing this test and swirling the vial after each addition of reagent #3 will help!
Last edited by waterbear; 04-22-2006 at 11:00 PM.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
You couldn't have known about it then, because I didn't!Originally Posted by salinda
However, you can purchase the PS234 for a little more than a refill kit for the PS233, and you really don't lose anything, execept the powder . . . which you really ought to replace annually, anyhow. All the other reagents, except maybe the R0003 (now FAS-DPD #3) which hardly anyone ever uses up, keep well if you store them well.
I can't remember what causes that -- I'll have to check with Taylor. But, it's not 'fixed' reliably by the "add R0012 first" (now "CAL #3) routine. Reguardless, the bottom line is that your test shows 490 to 530 ppm of calcium hardness in your pool. And honestly, it doesn't matter whether it's 490 or 520; either way it's high enough to cause problems. So . . .you need to stop using any calcium based products (cal hypo?), and keep your pH and alk at the low end of the scale, to avoid problems.Originally Posted by salinda
Ben
"PoolDoc"
Update: I checked with Taylor, just be sure. The 'floaties' or clumps indicate the presence of magnesium in your water. This is normal behavior, when magnesium is present, and doesn't interfere with the results (other than making them a bit confusing). The end point is when everything has changed color, but you may need to go slowly on the last few drops, to prevent overshooting.
Still, my original observation is correct: there's no functional difference for you, between 490 ppm and 520 ppm. What you need to to is the same, regardless.
Last edited by PoolDoc; 04-25-2006 at 06:30 AM.
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