Good suggestion. I'll try that tonight when I get home.
Thanks!
Good suggestion. I'll try that tonight when I get home.
Thanks!
- Mike
13,500 gal, gunite, white plaster, Aquarite SWG, 2 ft Waterfall and Ledge Bubbler
Well, the power reset changed the parameters.
The unit appears to be working.
The problem is before the original failure the salt reading was 2500 ppm. I added 40 lbs of salt which should have brought it near 3000 ppm.
After the power reset the salt reading is back down to 1600 ppm.
? ? ?
Tonight I am going to remove the cell and make sure it's not blocked somehow.
Tomorrow I'm going to try to get a water sample to my builder's pool store and get them to test the salt and see if it really is 1600 ppm. If it is, I'll start adding salt again. Maybe the unit was going flakey, giving me erroneous readings before the failure.
If it's not 1600, if it's in the 3000 range, then I guess I'll let them service the unit on Friday.
- Mike
13,500 gal, gunite, white plaster, Aquarite SWG, 2 ft Waterfall and Ledge Bubbler
Get yourself a taylor K-1766 salt test kit. It is a very simple test and you will know exactly what your salt level is. I had to manually calibrate my PoolPilot so it would match my results.
Donnie
9000 Gallon Fiberglass IG / Sta-Rite pump,cartridge filter & heater / PoolPilot Dig 220-36 SWG / Testing w/K2006
mike, have you used the diagnostic button? push #5 should show you instant salinity - the unit has to be generating for a number to show. If you get ~ -3000 on the instant you can slave that number to the main display by turning the switch to SUPER and back to AUTO.
The units are supposed (!) to show 2600 as default - but I've seen some that show 1600 (the same reading you're getting... hmmm?). Try the diagnostic tonight, it may save you a $ervice call - we know that something happened to the computer, this may be a little one time side effectwhen you push the little black "diagnostic" button next to the display - it will show you (by push #):
1. Water temp
2. Cell voltage
3. Cell current
4. Desired % output
5. Instant salinity (with a "-" sign) (salt ppm)
6. Which unit you have
7. Which software revision yours has.(another sign that the 1600 isn't a 'true' reading is that you say that the unit 'appears to be working'- if the unit actually thought that the salt was 1600, the low salt light would be on and the unit wouldn't generate)
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
I'll try to find that Taylor kit for salt.. sounds like a good one to have if you have a SWG.
I'll also try the diag button to see what's what.
Thanks for all the info and help!
- Mike
13,500 gal, gunite, white plaster, Aquarite SWG, 2 ft Waterfall and Ledge Bubbler
Well, the Aquarite seems to be feeling much better.
When I got home this afternoon, I checked the system and the readout was 2800 ppm, which is close to what I assumed it would be.
The diagnostic button revealed the instant salinity to be 2900, pretty close.
I checked Chlorine levels and I was at about 4 to 5 ppm, so I'm at least generating CL.
I checked CYA and I'm out, so I need to up the CYA, bump up the CL and hopefully I'll be set for the season.
Calling the service co tomorrow and canceling the service call, at least until it fails again.
Thanks for all the help!
- Mike
13,500 gal, gunite, white plaster, Aquarite SWG, 2 ft Waterfall and Ledge Bubbler
Mike, glad to hear things have sorted themselves out without a $ervice call! If you have any more problems, ask us and we'll do what we can for you!
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
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