Coring question

[waste]

Hal,
Kelly's method and mine are pretty much the same, about the only place we differ is in the sealing method. I've never used the marine epoxy so will limit my comments to what I said.

The epoxy paint on adhesive I was talking about was made by Sampson Paints in Richmond Va - they happened to be about 2 1/2 blocks from our warehouse - I'd assume that other paint manufacturers make a similar product. The stuff we got came in a few different types, be sure that the 'hardener' matches the resin (if they don't match - the epoxy may fail). When you mix the stuff up do it in small amounts, the stuff 'kicks' in ~ 10 min, also it will get very (!) hot - I've seen smoke rolling off of wooden handled paint brushes that have sat in the mix while it sets ) Speaking of which, have a few palstic buckets, paint mixing sticks and cheep (disposable) paint brushes on hand, once the stuff goes, you're not using them for anything else again, except maybe the bucket which you could pour some sand into and make an ashtray .

Now let's talk hydrolic cement (Waterplug, Thorite ...), this stuff sets up quicker than the epoxy paint - once it's mixed, you've got ~ 3- 5 min to apply it. Have a couple of buckets ready to do a couple of 'small' mixes (in a 5 gal. bucket put 3 - 4" of the powder in the bottom and add the water slowly! until it makes an oatmeal consistancy (as the water is added, mix it in with the powder) Using a 'margin trowel' makes it easier to get the mix consistant (no pockets of dry powder) - if it is too wet or dry to use right away, more powder or water can be added, but it's gotta be quick because the stuff sets so fast! The folks mixing or applying this stuff should wear Dr.'s gloves as it is very (!) astringent, a coat of Vasoline will also help keep it from 'burning' the skin. For aplication, the best tool is your gloved hand, and perhaps a flathead screwdriver to pack it in - you'll probably use both ends of it. It's important to have ~ 1" of the hydrolic cement be packed into the space between the epoxied pipe and the existing wall back in the cove you beveled out. Also remember to leave enough room for the faceplate fitting.

OK, let's put this thing in... leave a couple feet of pipe available on the back side, have someone push the pipe into the pool to you so you can aply the epoxy (measuring where you will need it is a good idea ) and then pull it back through the hole to where it's ~ flush with the wall, 1/8" behind the 'face of the wall will allow you to get the faceplte flush with the wall. When you start to epoxy the outside of the pipe, have someone mix up a batch of the hydrolic cement so everything's ready when you 'paint' the pipe. If it can be done, when packing in the hydrolic cement, have someone 'backing you up' from the back side of the pool (where they pulled back the pipe from) with something which would fit into the coredrilled hole and provide something to keep the 'crete' you're packing in to be tight against the pipe and existing wall, if you can't do that ( I think you've got 1+' of wall, due to 2 walls) make sure that you really! pack that stuff in. Have the person on the back end hold the pipe so that the faceplate will be plumb with the wall! As a last measure, sometimes we would epoxy and fill the backside of the cored hole with the hydrolic cement.

Sorry, I wasn't here yesterday because I went to a bar and got home late and I'm very!! tired right now -- If I wasn't clear on anything or missed something, I'll correct it tomorow. -Ted

[edit] If the person mixing the hydrolic cement has never done it before, it might be worth the wasted material to have them mix up a test batch so they have an idea of how much water to use and whoever is applying it can see how quickly it sets. / The applied epoxy doesn't set as quickly as the stuff left in the bucket, you've probably got 20+ min to put in the hydrolic cement. / Finding something the right height to support the back end of the pipe means that someone doesn't have to hold it for 15- 20 min to keep it parallel to the pool wall. [end edit]