Indoor SWCG Pool, cloudy/ green

[waste]

Richard, again I thank you for your input!

When I was first called out there for the 'cloudy' water, others had been there and added the salt (however, they neglected to turn the SWCG 'on' ) I added 12.5% to compensate and turned the d*mned thing on. (Part of the problem is that I'm only getting 'called in' when something goes wrong). It went from 'cloudy' (~white~ precipitation) to clear after I shocked it, then back to the same 'cloudy'. My boss called me (I should charge him for the call ) and added more 12.5% after talking to me and 'upped' the output on the cell (was at 5% and he turned it up to 20% -after I told him how to do it )
The water went (over the course of 5 visits, 2 of them I was there to supervise) from cloudy to clear, back to cloudy and then to the 'green' (water not cloudy, but 2 days later- when I got there to 'clear', but with a green hue to the water)

I'm almost sorry I created this thread, as I'm the only one ( in my company, the owner included) who cares (or has taken the time, to try and figure out what's going on), however - I guess that's the price I have to pay for making enough $ to afford new furniture (that's why I gave my test kit to my partener - I had to stay home to receive tne new living room set, so I (foolishly) entrusted him w/ my kit).

I strongly suspected that algae had entered the pool, but was wondering if, with the solar cover on, the chlorine (5+ ppm) couldn't do it's job, without being able to 'outgas'

I don't know how 'outgassing' effects a pools' ability to 'clear-up', which is why I turned to you and Evan -- I'm meerly a questor here, trying to make sence of 'what's going on'

Richard, as always, thank you for the info you share!! -Ted

[chem geek]

I have an opaque pool cover, maintain chlorine levels, use CYA (around 20 ppm) and never get algae. Yes, it's an outdoor pool, but even when it's covered for days or a week at a time nothing goes wrong with it. Now that doesn't prove anything since it's just one data point, but your use of a pool cover may have caused the pool temperature to rise and that is something that the algae may have liked -- so if the pool was on the "edge" of developing algae, that could have pushed it over.

You said there was 5 ppm FC, but when you measured later when it was green there was no FC at all so I'm still betting that the FC didn't hold, though again I don't know why (if the SWG was working). This sounds like a classic algae bloom that must be fought with frequent additions of chlorine until the chlorine holds after the water clears, but usually with an SWG you can just run it more frequently (even continually) and the high chlorine in the cell will blast most of the algae. So something here still doesn't add up. Have you measured the CYA level yet?

I doubt that simply being an indoor pool with CYA is the culprit, but if it is then I'll have real egg on my face. I knew that achieving breakpoint (keeping CC low) is hard in an indoor pool and that CYA makes that harder, but did not expect algae to develop -- it just doesn't make much sense.

Richard

[Poolsean]

my two cents....
The fact that it cleared up with the addition of chlorine leans towards it being algae. If it were metals causing the green hue, shocking would have caused it to fall out of solution and stain the pool.
I'm with the rest. TEST FIRST and report the results back to us. Also, you may want to upgrade to a K2006, that allows you to test free and combined chlorine to very high levels. In most cases with indoor pools and Salt Chlorine generators, it's easy to overchlorinate as there are little usage, tend to be smaller volumes, and little to no UV to consume the chlorine (and you have a cover too in this case).

I'd bet that the well water is very high in organic loads or some other "stuff" that is creating a chlorine demand that the salt system cannot keep up with. Again going back to the suggestions of the rest, shock the pool to overcome the chlorine demand. Check your filter for debris/algae. Test and report back to us.

Sorry, nothing new to offer from what already has been offered.

[aquarium]

Well water might also contain high levels of crop fertilizers such as nitrates and phosphates that have run off and/or percolated into the water table.

[waste]

Thanks again guys!

I almost feel like a 'newbie' here - having been told to give the #s (the same thing I tell newbies to do ).

IF I get back out there, I'll get the full set of #s and post them! (as well as what I did to correct anything still wrong)

Can I trust my PS234 after it froze? (when I started the tests the other day, I felt/ heard a 'chunk' of ice fall to the top of the bottle of the #2 reagent while adding the drops - I assume that the ice was water, but did I add 3 drops of undiluted [whatever the chem is] to the mix, and can I still use it -- or any of the other reagents that froze) I'm afraid that I can't trust any of the tests anymore after the freeze (chem geek, evan...). I'll be having my boss order me a 2006 when we go back to work next month. [ I ordered and payed for the 234 I used last summer, so I shouldn't hear any '*****ing' about having to order a new kit this year].

Again, thanks for the help and input (if it were within my power, this thing would now be a 'non-issue')
Thanks to all, again - Ted (aka waste)

[waterbear]

I would think the DPD powder; TA titrant and acid and base demand titrants would still be good and also the cacium buffer (reagent 1 of the calcium test) as long as you let them totally unthaw before using them. (These last 4 are basically just solutions of sulfuric acid [TA titrand and acid demand] and of sodium hydroxide [base demand and calcium buffer].) I also think reagent one of the TA test would be good [just a solotion of sodium thiosulfate to neutralize chlorine]. I would dump the others and get new ones. Not sure about the CYA reagent but I suspect it would also be good after freezing. Richard, care to chime in here?