Well water might also contain high levels of crop fertilizers such as nitrates and phosphates that have run off and/or percolated into the water table.
my two cents....
The fact that it cleared up with the addition of chlorine leans towards it being algae. If it were metals causing the green hue, shocking would have caused it to fall out of solution and stain the pool.
I'm with the rest. TEST FIRST and report the results back to us. Also, you may want to upgrade to a K2006, that allows you to test free and combined chlorine to very high levels. In most cases with indoor pools and Salt Chlorine generators, it's easy to overchlorinate as there are little usage, tend to be smaller volumes, and little to no UV to consume the chlorine (and you have a cover too in this case).
I'd bet that the well water is very high in organic loads or some other "stuff" that is creating a chlorine demand that the salt system cannot keep up with. Again going back to the suggestions of the rest, shock the pool to overcome the chlorine demand. Check your filter for debris/algae. Test and report back to us.
Sorry, nothing new to offer from what already has been offered.
Sean Assam
Commercial Product Sales Manager - AquaCal AutoPilot Inc. Mobile: 954-325-3859
e-mail: sean@teamhorner.com --- www.autopilot.com - www.aquacal.com
Well water might also contain high levels of crop fertilizers such as nitrates and phosphates that have run off and/or percolated into the water table.
Tom Wood
15K IG Plaster, Sand Filter, Polaris 180
Thanks again guys!
I almost feel like a 'newbie' here - having been told to give the #s(the same thing I tell newbies to do ).
IF I get back out there, I'll get the full set of #s and post them! (as well as what I did to correct anything still wrong)
Can I trust my PS234 after it froze? (when I started the tests the other day, I felt/ heard a 'chunk' of ice fall to the top of the bottle of the #2 reagent while adding the drops - I assume that the ice was water, but did I add 3 drops of undiluted [whatever the chem is] to the mix, and can I still use it -- or any of the other reagents that froze) I'm afraid that I can't trust any of the tests anymore after the freeze (chem geek, evan...). I'll be having my boss order me a 2006 when we go back to work next month. [ I ordered and payed for the 234 I used last summer, so I shouldn't hear any '*****ing' about having to order a new kit this year].
Again, thanks for the help and input (if it were within my power, this thing would now be a 'non-issue')
Thanks to all, again - Ted (aka waste)
Luv & Luk, Ted
Having done construction and service for 4 pool companies in 4 states starting in 1988, what I know about pools could fill a couple of books - what I don't know could fill libraries
I would think the DPD powder; TA titrant and acid and base demand titrants would still be good and also the cacium buffer (reagent 1 of the calcium test) as long as you let them totally unthaw before using them. (These last 4 are basically just solutions of sulfuric acid [TA titrand and acid demand] and of sodium hydroxide [base demand and calcium buffer].) I also think reagent one of the TA test would be good [just a solotion of sodium thiosulfate to neutralize chlorine]. I would dump the others and get new ones. Not sure about the CYA reagent but I suspect it would also be good after freezing. Richard, care to chime in here?
Last edited by waterbear; 02-21-2007 at 03:44 AM.
Retired pool store and commercial pool maintenance guy.
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