Instructions for PS234 test kit

[Poolidiot]

Instructions for PS234 test kit

>CHLORINE DROP-COUNT (FAS/DPD TEST (record as ‘FC’ and/or ‘CC’ above)

1. Rinse and fill clear chlorine test tube to the 10 ml mark on the side.
2. Add 1 scoop of FAS-DPD #1 powder and swirl. (Don’t worry if some remains undissolved)
3. Carefully add drops of FAS-DPD #2 reagent, 1 drop at a time. Be sure to use #2, not #3. Swirl after each drop. Continue until the pink color disappears. Divide the number of drops by 2 for your FREE chlorine reading. (10 drops = 5 ppm free chlorine). Chart in the “FC” box.
4. To test combined chlorine, continue by adding 5 drops of FAS-DPD #3 potassium iodide solution & swirl to mix. If the sample remains clear, you have no combined chlorine.
5. Otherwise, add drops of FAS-DPD #2 reagent as before, until the color disappears. Divide number of drops by 2 for COMBINED chlorine reading. Chart in the “CC” row, NOT the TC row. NOTE: FC + CC = TC. FAS – DPD TC readings will not match OTO readings exactly.

>DAILY CHLORINE COLOR COMPARATOR (OTO) TEST (‘TC’)

1. Rinse and fill yellow-side tube of the test block with pool water to line.
2. Add 5 drops R-0600 OTO solution. Cap and invert to mix.
3. Match color with chlorine color standard. – be careful of background. Chart as TC.
NOTE: OTO testing is less accurate, but very reliable. If there is no yellow color, after adding OTO, you have NO chlorine of any kind. If the solution turns orange, check with FAS-DPD to make sure level is below 20 ppm. If the solution turns brown, do NOT swim – chlorine levels are above 50 ppm, and will damage suits and may irritate skin!

>pH TEST (record as ‘pH’)

1. Rinse and fill pH (reddish) side tube of test block with pool water to line.
2. Add 5 drops R-0014 phenol red solution. Cap and invert to mix.
3. Match sample color with pH color standard.
4. If the chlorine level is above 15 ppm wait till the chlorine drops before testing.
NOTE: for OTO & pH testing, use white inside label as background.

>TOTAL ALKALINITY TEST (TA, alkalinity – Record as ‘Alk’)

1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to the 25 ml mark with pool water.
2. Add 2 drops ALK #1 & swirl to mix. Add 5 drops ALK #2 indicator & mix. Sample should turn green.
3. Add ALK #3 one drop at a time, swirling between drops. Continue adding drops till sample changes from green to red. Multiply the number of drops of ALK #3 used by 10. Record this reading as “Alk”.
NOTE: colors may go from blue to yellow (instead of green to red) if oxidizer levels (peroxide, oxy-shock, chlorine or bromine) are high. This does not invalidate the test.

>CALCIUM HARDNESS TEST (CH, hardness – record as ‘Cal’)

1. Rinse and fill large comparator tube to the 25 ml mark with pool water.
2. Add 20 drops CAL#1 and mix. Add 5 drops CAL #2 and mix. A red color indicates calcium’s presence.
3. Add CAL #3 one drop at a time, swirling after each drop. Continue till color changes to blue.
4. Multiply number of drops by 10. This is your calcium hardness reading. Record as “Cal”.
5. On pools with ionizers, ‘mineral tabs’, Nature2, Pristine Blue, or copper algaecides, add TWO drops of CAL #3 BEFORE adding Cal #2. Include these drops in your count.

>CYANURIC ACID TEST (stabilizer, conditioner – record as ‘Cya’)

1. Rinse, empty & fill the CYA dispensing bottle to the 1st line mark with pool water.
2. Fill with CYA#1 reagent to the 2nd line. Cap, mix & wait 30 seconds.
3. Get the clear tube, marked “C.A. VIEW TUBE”, and hold it at waist level in outdoor light. Slowly fill the small comparator tube with the mix from the CYA dispensing bottle, just until the black dot at the BOTTOM of the tube disappears completely when viewed from the top.
4. If the black dot never disappears, you have ZERO stabilizer. If it disappears instantly, your stabilizer level is greater than 150 ppm. Otherwise raise the tube to eye level, find the scale on the side of the tube, marked 100 at the lowest point and 20 at the highest.
5. Read the liquid level in the tube against the scale. This is your CYA level.

>GETTING GOOD RESULTS

1. ALWAYS rinse the test cells with pool water BEFORE beginning testing.
2. ALWAYS rinse the test cells with clean pool water or tap water AFTER finishing your tests.
3. ALWAYS recap the reagent bottles promptly. Both the DPD powder (FASDPD #1) and the FAS drops (FASDPD #2) need to be tightly capped.
4. NEVER collect your water sample from the surface of the pool. Fully submerge the collection vessel upside down before allowing pool water to enter.
5. NEVER leave your PS234 at pool side in the sun, or in a hot pump house or garage. Store it indoors. Instead, use the inexpensive PS200 as a quick poolside tester.
6. When using the color match pH or OT chlorine tests, the color of the background will affect your ability to read the results. Best results will come from using a white sunlit (or sky lit) light surface as background. The inside label of the pS200 is there for exactly this purpose, but do not place the testblock directly against the lid label. Hold it at least 2” away from the label. Avoid strongly colored backgrounds, such as green trees or lawn, or blue sky.



IMPORTANT
1.Keep DPD powder DRY!!
2.Use only 1 dipper full of powder.
3.Use a completely dry dipper: allow a wet dipper to dry COMPLETELY
Before re-using
4.If powder turns medium gray or darker order a replacement.

[CarlD]

It looks like standard Taylor test chems with the older numbering scheme can be substituted as refills.

For example, if the CYA test is equal amounts of pool water and re-agent, then Taylor #0013 should be the same re-agent as Ben's #1.

In the T/A test, Re-Agents #1, #2 and #3 sound EXACTLY like Taylor re-agents #0007, #0008, and #0009.

In the CH test, Re-Agents #1-#3 sound like Taylor #0010, 0011, and 0012.

In the pH test, 0014 is the same number as the Taylor re-agent 0014 (Be VERY careful--0004 is NOT the same reagent).

I can't quite remember the numbers for the FC test..Maybe I'll add them in later.

I suspect the OTO quick test is just the standard OTO re-agent available anywhere.

Somebody with the PS-234 should test these Taylors against the PoolSolutions and see if the results are the same.

[waste]

It looks like standard Taylor test chems with the older numbering scheme can be substituted as refills.

For example, if the CYA test is equal amounts of pool water and re-agent, then Taylor #0013 should be the same re-agent as Ben's #1.

In the T/A test, Re-Agents #1, #2 and #3 sound EXACTLY like Taylor re-agents #0007, #0008, and #0009.

In the CH test, Re-Agents #1-#3 sound like Taylor #0010, 0011, and 0012.

In the pH test, 0014 is the same number as the Taylor re-agent 0014 (Be VERY careful--0004 is NOT the same reagent).

I can't quite remember the numbers for the FC test..Maybe I'll add them in later.

I suspect the OTO quick test is just the standard OTO re-agent available anywhere.

Somebody with the PS-234 should test these Taylors against the PoolSolutions and see if the results are the same.

Carl, I've got the PS234 and a Taylor 2005 (sitting on my bookshelf), however I don't have a pool (even if I did it would probably be iced over) - would you like me to do my tap water with both?

[halefmly]

It looks like standard Taylor test chems with the older numbering scheme can be substituted as refills.

For example, if the CYA test is equal amounts of pool water and re-agent, then Taylor #0013 should be the same re-agent as Ben's #1.

In the T/A test, Re-Agents #1, #2 and #3 sound EXACTLY like Taylor re-agents #0007, #0008, and #0009.

In the CH test, Re-Agents #1-#3 sound like Taylor #0010, 0011, and 0012.

In the pH test, 0014 is the same number as the Taylor re-agent 0014 (Be VERY careful--0004 is NOT the same reagent).

I can't quite remember the numbers for the FC test..Maybe I'll add them in later.

I suspect the OTO quick test is just the standard OTO re-agent available anywhere.

Somebody with the PS-234 should test these Taylors against the PoolSolutions and see if the results are the same.

Carl,

The full cross reference from Ben's PS234 to the Taylor reagents can be found here: http://www.poolsolutions.com/kit/ps234_taylor_crossmatch.html
I have depleted some of my original reagents and replaced them per this chart, with consistent results.

[pinkivory_99]

How about the instructions for the salt test. I just recently installed a salt Generator and will be starting it soon once the pool is opened.
Thanks in advance

[dawndenise]

SALT TEST INSTRUCTIONS

Directions:

1.) Shake the salt test tube dry from previous tests & CAREFULLY fill to the 2ml line. Accuracy matters on this step!

2.) Add just ONE drop of the SALT #1 indicator (yellow).

3.) Fill the tube to about the 5ml line with SALT #3 (distilled water) and swirl to mix.

4.) One at a time, add drops of the SALT #2 reagent. Swirl after EACH drop. The sample will turn milky yellow. Swirl & drop, until the sample begins to turn reddish orange. Continue slowly adding drops until the sample REMAINS reddish orange after swirling. Each drop equals 200 ppm of chloride (salt); multiply number of drops x 200 for result.

5.) Dispose of sample properly (NOT in pool), & rinse sample tube carefully. Leave a few drops of distilled water in the tube, & then cap tube. Note extra tube supplied in the refills bag.





These are the instructions that came inside my PS234S kit. I've reproduced them exactly as printed, even the punctuation and capitalization. The only thing I changed was that the steps were numbered 1-2-3-3-4 in the label and I've corrected them to 1-2-3-4-5.

[DavidD]

I have the Sodium Chloride test kit from Leslies (a re-labeled Taylor K-166 kit). The directions are a little different as the instruction state to fill to 10ml with pool water then add one drop R-0630. I wonder why Ben's is using 2ml pool water and 3ml distilled? Any ideas anyone?

Dave

[waterbear]

SALT TEST INSTRUCTIONS

Directions:

1.) Shake the salt test tube dry from previous tests & CAREFULLY fill to the 2ml line. Accuracy matters on this step!

2.) Add just ONE drop of the SALT #1 indicator (yellow).

3.) Fill the tube to about the 5ml line with SALT #3 (distilled water) and swirl to mix.

4.) One at a time, add drops of the SALT #2 reagent. Swirl after EACH drop. The sample will turn milky yellow. Swirl & drop, until the sample begins to turn reddish orange. Continue slowly adding drops until the sample REMAINS reddish orange after swirling. Each drop equals 200 ppm of chloride (salt); multiply number of drops x 200 for result.

5.) Dispose of sample properly (NOT in pool), & rinse sample tube carefully. Leave a few drops of distilled water in the tube, & then cap tube. Note extra tube supplied in the refills bag.





These are the instructions that came inside my PS234S kit. I've reproduced them exactly as printed, even the punctuation and capitalization. The only thing I changed was that the steps were numbered 1-2-3-3-4 in the label and I've corrected them to 1-2-3-4-5.

HMMM, the directions for the salt test in my PS234s are different and I do not have the distilled water (reagent #3)! I have one of the early ones! Here they are verbatim:

IMPORTANT NOTES:
1. The chemicals in this test will STAIN stuff; wear latex or nitirle gloves. If you don't wear gloves, WASH hands carefulle after testing. Dispose of the test sample properly, NOT in your pool or on your pool deck!

1. CAREFULLY fill the salt test tube to the 2 ml line.
2. Add just ONE drop of the SALT #1 indicator (yellow).
3. One at a time add drops of SALT #2 regent. Swirl sample after EACH drop. The sample will turn a milky yellow. Swirl & drop, until the sample begins to turn reddish orange. Continue slowly adding drops until the sample REMAINS reddish orange after swirling. Each drop equals 200 ppm of chloride (salt); multiply number of drops x 200 for results.
4. Dispose of sample properly, and rinse sample tube carefully. Note the extra sample tube supplied in the refills bag.

It seems that Ben added the dilution step (but not as much as Taylor diltues, they add 8 ml water) and has the tube stored wet also, I guess, help prevent the silver chloride precipitate from drying on the tube and darkening. Now we know why there are 2 step 3's in Dawndeniese's instruchtions! I wonder if the distilled water was going to be part of the salt test correction kit that Ben was going to send out to all the people who got defective salt tests (such as myself). I don't know if they ever got sent out. I never got one.

[dawndenise]

IMPORTANT NOTES:
1. The chemicals in this test will STAIN stuff; wear latex or nitirle gloves. If you don't wear gloves, WASH hands carefulle after testing. Dispose of the test sample properly, NOT in your pool or on your pool deck!


I thought this sounded familiar, but I know it wasn't part of the instructions for the test. I looked back at my kit and there's another sticker on the top/front of my kit (along with the Pool Test Log and the serial number stickers).

SALT (Chloride) Test Included

Test contains silver nitrate (SALT #2). It will stain things DARK BROWN if spilled & not removed completely; the resulting stains cannot be removed!
So, be neat & be careful!


FWIW, I received my kit near mid-June of last summer.

[waterbear]

FWIW, I received my kit near mid-June of last summer.

I preordered early and got one of the early kits with the defective salt test. Still defective to this day. Am using a Taylor test kit or the Hach (AquaChek) salt test strips at home or use the meter at work to test my salt (Yes, the meter is calibated on a regular basis!)