High Phospates? Is this a problem?

[chris_r11]

Hi,
We have a new pool that the tester at Leslie's says has high phosphates.

A week ago I was told they are about 500 and to put in a PhosFree chemical that they sold me for $32 a gallon (yikes) and to put in about half. I did and went back and was told that they are still about 500 and that it should be 100

So, is this a problem?

My water has the following characteristics:

Chlorine 5.2 (I think that is free CL? Don't remember)
PH 7.6, but this seems to rise quickly as in about a half gallon of acid a week?
CYA 50
If I remember right, the Alk is about 140 - well something was 140

The pool is a less than 2 month old dark plaster pool, about 20K gallons with a salt system on it.

Thanks,

Chris

[CarlD]

Ignore phosphates. They are the latest scam to get you to buy expensive chemicals. Phosphates should ONLY be considered when ALL OTHER EFFORTS FAIL! And I don't think 500ppm is considered high. IF you have severe algae and our methods fail to keep the pool clear, then, maybe phospates should be considered. Until then, it's main function is a fiduciary transfer of funds.

You are much better off with the B-B-B method, getting your own test kit and forgetting Leslies.

Your numbers are pretty darn good, especially for a new plaster pool. Your CYA is 50: That means you should NOT be using tri-chlor pucks or di-chlor powder for chlorination--instead stick with bleach or liquid chlorine.

You T/A may be a tad high at 140 (for plaster, for vinyl it's FINE). But I wouldn't mess with it unless you are having a problem. You also need to keep your calcium in the 200-400 range.

[chris_r11]

Thanks Carl.

I have been trying to find the easiest way to keep the numbers in line with this pool. Is there a post to look at that would give me the guide lines to follow - what numbers am I really aiming for? I have a SWG that has recently been activated so I don't know if I should just sort of ignore the first B of the BBB method? The person at Leslies also told me that my Cl of 5.2 was high....

I also know I need a better test kit that the one the the PB supplied me. I have been sort of holding out for Ben's kit. Should I continue doing that or just get a taylor?

The water seems perfectly clear although the PH is a constant battle to keep it down. I seem to be using about a gallon a week of acid. Is that normal?

Thanks,
Chris

[Poconos]

At this time I would recommend getting the Taylor K-2006 and extra reagent for the CYA test and since you're dealing with a plaster pool and are probably going to do a lot of calcium hardness testing, get extra reagent too. The kits are usually available at pool stores but a good online source I've used is
http://www.spspools-spas.com/
and their bulk reagents are well priced too.

Al

[CarlD]

Also, Leslies on-line has their Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit that's currently about $65. This, too, is like Ben's kit or the Taylor 2006--it'a made by Taylor and re-branded, but the retail stores don't sell it, only the web.

I think the main advantage is that Ben's kit comes with lots of refills, is well-organized, has a log, etc. But the Taylor and the Leslies kits are, in terms of measurement, just as good. Refills are all Taylor and available from either.

[keithw]

The Taylor K-2006 is a great kit. I would also recommend that you buy an extra DPD power and the CL reagent at the same time as the kit and the CYA reagent. Saves on shipping. Buy the largest CYA (16oz) and the largest LC reagent (1.5oz, I think). The DPD come in just one size. I got my K-2006 at the beginning of the season and CL is definitely to test that I seem to perform the most. This site also has good pricing on test kits and reagents. http://www.poolcenter.com/Chemical_testing_in_pools.htm

Since you said that you have an SWG, you may want to consider a salt test kit as well. The salt test strips are pretty good. Although test strips in general are not considered very accurate, the salt test strips are one that I have found that seem to be very good.