Mizzouguy, so sorry to have missed this until today!(turned the big 40 on Thurs - there's been a little celebrating going on - for some reason lots of people wanted to buy me beer
) Anyway, to your ?s:
1) There are 2 plugs on the bottom of the pump for winter draining, if you blow through the whole system without first draining the pump, the water still in the pump will keep traveling through the lines (the amount is ~ negligable but I'm ~ a 'purist'). To reiterate something I've said before- the more thoroughly you blow out the lines, the less likely you are to have the pipe freeze and bur$t.
2) I will assume that you have a 'box shaped' heater (Laars/ Hayward), there are 2 9/16" plugs on the back side (the side opposite the 'in/ out' manifold) that can be pulled prior to blowing the system which drain the heat exchanger. Also, there is usually a plug or petcock on the bottom of the manifold to help drain the exchanger. The last thing to do for the heater is pull the front pannel off, turn off the Robert Shaw gas valve and disconnect the pressure switch (round thing with 2 wires going to it screwed onto a small copper pipe 7/16" or 1/2" wrench usually fits the 'quick connect'. If you have a Sta-Rite heater, let me know, as we do something totally different with them.
For the slide, you've got it, it helps to turn the blower off for ~5 sec a couple of times to let the water collect before turning it back on, you'll see a little 'plume' of water come out each time you do this, when it becomes just mist you're ok
3) I've never been able to figure out how to get any AF into the MD pipe - I just blow air through it untill it bubbles and quickly close the line - this should keep the water in the pipe below the 'frost line'
4) Polyquat (60%) is the only good algistat, as per this forum. Folks have debated it's necessity here, IF you have sufficient fc, there is really no reason for the poly, but - for reassurance, having some in there gives 'peace of mind'. MY take is that if you have a mesh cover, you should use it, if you have a solid cover, use it if you want.
5) For a shop vac, an SP1091-Z-7 works well (they're also called backwash adapters) If you're using an air compressor, they make expandable rubber plugs with a 'tank valve' (Like to fill a tire) that will do the job
6) If the MD has it's own line, it should blow out after the returns, etc are plugged, if it doesn't plug the inlet on the pump, so that all the air is being forced to the MD line from the skimmer. If the MD is plumbed through the skimmer (), there is another way to do it.
7) YUP!
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