Where to blow out line (picture)

[waste]

Welcome to the forum, link is now working. If you have a large enough blower, you can put the multiport on "recirc" and blow everything via the skimmer (if you go with A, you'll only get the suction lines). If you lower the water below the skimmer mouth and attach the compressor to the skimmer pipe with the mp on recirc, you'll blow across the system and clear all the lines (pull the 2 pump plugs before doing this or you'll just push the water in the pump through the lines). The returns and polaris port will start to bubble, when they have a good steady airflow, plug them (you will get wet doing this!!), then the MD will start to bubble, go to the Jandy valve andshut off the MD side with the air still on - then turn off the compressor, add antifreeze to the skimmer line and install the Gizzmo.
Winterize is the setting to use once the lines are blown out to prevent the unit from getting damaged by any water still in it or from having the gasket 'bond' to the pressure plate and rip at the first turn next spring.

[Charrua2]

Thanks for the reply and apologies for the ignorant follow-up questions. Anyways, here they are:

1. My intention was to lower the water below the return ports (I believe that's what the pool company has done in the past). Would this change anything to the process you described?

2. When do I remove the cap/plug and the pressure gauge from the filter (before or after blowing the lines)?

3. There are two plugs in the skimmer. One is easily removed and the other does not seem to come off. I read previously that this is normal. What is the purpose of this second plug?

finally,

4. I also read somewhere that antifreeze isn't necessary (I live in MD) but I'll take your word for it. So how much antifreeze should I put in?

Thanks again for the help.

[waste]

Charrua, no appologies necessary when good questions are asked !
1) As long as there is no danger to the pool, nor the security of the cover, the water is customarily lowered to below the returns by many people. In some areas with a high water table, pools can suffer from having water removed from them (as you've safely lowered yours below the returns before, I'd assume that it's ok to do it as part of your closing)
2) You can do that at any point after you're done using the 'backwash' or 'filter' function of your multiport. I usually wait until I'm done blowing out the lines and setting the multiport to 'winterize', but you can do as you wish (unless the pressure gauge doubles as a drain port for the multi, in which case you want to leave it in to ensure that you get enough pressure to blow the MD) (BTW - some multiports do have a separate drain plug [9/16" wrench removes it] that should be removed if the unit is going to stay outside)
3) The purpose of the second plug is to keep you from losing the water in your pool. As a fine point, the purpose of the second 'port' is to allow you to connect either the main drain through the skimmer line ( !!!!!!!!), a 'bounce/ ballance' line (an open pipe into the bottom of the skimmer that will "supposedly" keep the skimmer from drawing air if the water level gets too low vs. the skimmer opening) or a reserve line that is plumbed in at the time of construction to allow a 'quick and easy' skimmer line replacement in the event that the main line breaks (it's plumbed up near the main, ie working, line, but not plumbed into the pump unless the primary line fails). I'll assume that the pool builder didn't use the port for any of these, so glued the plug in, often from the bottom.
4) http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?t=5973 - this gives my take on antifreeze and amount needed.
Again, welcome to the forum - I look forward to seeing your 'answering posts' next year, as you learn more from the forum and about your pool, and as always, feel free to call upon the great(!) folks here to help you with any questions you may have - Waste

[Charrua2]

Thank you very much for the clear answer.

[mizzouguy]

WASTE-thanks for the skimmer info for blowing out all lines. I have a lot more questions for you if you have time:

1. (pull the 2 pump plugs before doing this or you'll just push the water in the pump through the lines). Sorry, I'm not clear what you mean by this? To be sure I'm clear, I remove the small plugs that are the pump, correct? I guess I'm not sure what water I would be pumping through the lines.

2. Heater and slide. I know my heater has a plug, so I remove this when blowing, correct? Any think special for the slide lines? I think in the past they just blow it out and possibly keep the valve open that is located right before it goes into the cement to attache to my outlet lines.

3. What about antifreeze in the main drain? I assume this isn't needed since it's so deep as long as I blow it out. (9ft in the deep end)

4. What is your take on the polyquat stuff? Everyone seems to have a different opinion.

5. What is the best way to hook up the air compressor or shop vac to the skimmer? I have to go buy one anyway, any attachments I need to be sure to get?

6. Will the main drain blow through this as well or do I need to try to do it last through the main drain pipe...if I can get it hooked up. This is probably based on how powerful of shop vac or compressor I can get.

7. Just to summarize a bit to be sure I have everything....pull on the plugs on the pump and heater, open up the slide valve, blow the lines through the skimmer and then pull the bottom plug on the sand filter?


thanks for any help!

[waste]

Mizzouguy, so sorry to have missed this until today! (turned the big 40 on Thurs - there's been a little celebrating going on - for some reason lots of people wanted to buy me beer ) Anyway, to your ?s:
1) There are 2 plugs on the bottom of the pump for winter draining, if you blow through the whole system without first draining the pump, the water still in the pump will keep traveling through the lines (the amount is ~ negligable but I'm ~ a 'purist'). To reiterate something I've said before- the more thoroughly you blow out the lines, the less likely you are to have the pipe freeze and bur$t.

2) I will assume that you have a 'box shaped' heater (Laars/ Hayward), there are 2 9/16" plugs on the back side (the side opposite the 'in/ out' manifold) that can be pulled prior to blowing the system which drain the heat exchanger. Also, there is usually a plug or petcock on the bottom of the manifold to help drain the exchanger. The last thing to do for the heater is pull the front pannel off, turn off the Robert Shaw gas valve and disconnect the pressure switch (round thing with 2 wires going to it screwed onto a small copper pipe 7/16" or 1/2" wrench usually fits the 'quick connect'. If you have a Sta-Rite heater, let me know, as we do something totally different with them.
For the slide, you've got it, it helps to turn the blower off for ~5 sec a couple of times to let the water collect before turning it back on, you'll see a little 'plume' of water come out each time you do this, when it becomes just mist you're ok

3) I've never been able to figure out how to get any AF into the MD pipe - I just blow air through it untill it bubbles and quickly close the line - this should keep the water in the pipe below the 'frost line'

4) Polyquat (60%) is the only good algistat, as per this forum. Folks have debated it's necessity here, IF you have sufficient fc, there is really no reason for the poly, but - for reassurance, having some in there gives 'peace of mind'. MY take is that if you have a mesh cover, you should use it, if you have a solid cover, use it if you want.

5) For a shop vac, an SP1091-Z-7 works well (they're also called backwash adapters) If you're using an air compressor, they make expandable rubber plugs with a 'tank valve' (Like to fill a tire) that will do the job

6) If the MD has it's own line, it should blow out after the returns, etc are plugged, if it doesn't plug the inlet on the pump, so that all the air is being forced to the MD line from the skimmer. If the MD is plumbed through the skimmer ( ), there is another way to do it.

7) YUP!

[mizzouguy]

Waste...everything worked perfect!
I borrowed an air compressor and used duct tape all over the end of end to a spare piece of PVC pipe that happened to screw right into the skimmer....I turned it on and water started pouring out of the outlets in a few seconds! I then plugged everything except the slide since I hadn't seen anything come out of yet. At this point I saw some good news...the main drain was bubbling like crazy so I turned the valve to the main drain (THAT WAS EASY!!!). I was worried about the main drain, but it turns out the slide required more pressure. As soon as I turned the valve on the main drain, the slide started gushing out the water. At this point I went back and did it all again leaving only one output open at a time until I couldn't get any water out.

As far as the anti-freeze....the guys that closed it last year made some L-shaped PVC tubes that they put on my outlets. I put these on and took the caps off and poured a gallon of the anti-freeze in each and then recapped. I'm not sure if this is what they used them for last year...but it sure made it easy to get anti-freeze in the end of the pipes!!!! I also poured a gallon down the skimmer and used a gizmo.

Thanks for the great info WASTE!!!! You saved me about $250.00. And, I feel like a did a better job than the pool guys......It doesn't seem like they could have had the water chemistry and everything correct in the hour it takes them???

[sniffmo]

5) For a shop vac, an SP1091-Z-7 works well (they're also called backwash adapters) If you're using an air compressor, they make expandable rubber plugs with a 'tank valve' (Like to fill a tire) that will do the job

Where can I buy this expandable plug with the tank valve? I have plugs, but have never seen them with a valve