zero stabilizer devouring cl?

[duraleigh]

Hey, Michael,

Actually, I may be all screwed up on that CYA dose. I looked at the chart for CYA dosage on that website I like and it calls for 1.25 lbs to bring 12,000 gal up to 40. It didn't seem like enough to me so I just rechecked and that's what it says. I know your Calc calls for 3 lbs. I've only added CYA twice to my pool ( used the dose off the side of the box ) but 3 lbs seems more reasonable than 1.25.

Here's the website: http://www.deh.enr.state.nc.us/ehs/chem.htm#ta

I'm gonna check some other numbers and try to sort this out.

Well, I just looked more carefully and the chart for CYA on the NC website is bogus. It looks like portions of the table are reversed where they actually call for LESS CYA to increase by 30 than to increase by 40!!. Obviously they transposed some numbers.

As always, trust Michael's calculator

[tggs]

I started learning and using the 3 B's process at the begining of last season and only use bleach to chlorinate now. The pool is a 12000 gal fiberglass with cartridge filter. My water is clear and has been; my cl levels won't hold constatnt i.e. are dropping and that is why I initially asked about the stabilizer. It sounds like I need stabilizer as I suspected. I can not find a source for the stabilizer reagent locally. Leslie's said they'll have it by the middle of next week. I'm inclined to put in 1.5 lbs of stabilizer ( acquired at Wal-Mart) and then check cya next week when I acquire the reagent.

I use a Wal-Mart test kit to calculate my cl. Using the shot glass method gives me free cl when I'm 'shocking' per cya levels on the best guess calculator. Can I read total cl by waiting for two minutes while the color fully develops and then subtract the free cl reading to arrive at combined cl even while using the s. glass method? That is the method that I have been using. Maybe I don't understand the s. galss method, although it seemed to work last year.

[waterbear]

I started learning and using the 3 B's process at the begining of last season and only use bleach to chlorinate now. The pool is a 12000 gal fiberglass with cartridge filter. My water is clear and has been; my cl levels won't hold constatnt i.e. are dropping and that is why I initially asked about the stabilizer. It sounds like I need stabilizer as I suspected. I can not find a source for the stabilizer reagent locally. Leslie's said they'll have it by the middle of next week. I'm inclined to put in 1.5 lbs of stabilizer ( acquired at Wal-Mart) and then check cya next week when I acquire the reagent.

I use a Wal-Mart test kit to calculate my cl. Using the shot glass method gives me free cl when I'm 'shocking' per cya levels on the best guess calculator. Can I read total cl by waiting for two minutes while the color fully develops and then subtract the free cl reading to arrive at combined cl even while using the s. glass method?
In theory, yes. In actual practice using OTO reagent to test for FC is highly inaccurate, 'shotglass method' or not! It is really only a test for TC. DPD is a test for FC. If you don't want to spend the bucks for an FAS-DPD test kit you can get in inexpensive DPD kit to do your FC (both Taylor and LaMotte have them, Lamotte has one that only tests FC--no TC-- and pH for about $12), use the OTO to do your TC and use the 'shot glass method' with both to read higher levels with less accuracy. (necessary with DPD since it will 'bleach out' at chlorine levels > about 10 ppm)
That is the method that I have been using. Maybe I don't understand the s. galss method, although it seemed to work last year.

IMHO, Best thing is to get an FAS-DPD test kit for your chlorine and save the OTO for quick daily (in a perfect world!) checks of chlorine levels