Kevin, welcome to the forum!
The first place to start is with the 'stickies' at the top of this area. (A good read through www.poolsolutions.com is also recommended - I, personally, feel that everyone should take the time 2X a month and reread everything there as it is the ULTIMATE base for all that we talk about here)
That said, your first priority is chemistry and having a clean pool. Brush the sides and floor (to expose any little 'hot spots' of pre algae that might be trying to catch hold), then vacuum the pool, thoroughly!
I'll assume that you've been on top of your chems, if everything is in order, add a quart of 'poly60' algicide (some people don't believe in this but I do, just as insurance), let the pool circulate for at least 4 hours, though a day is better. Now add a shock dose of chlorine, as per Ben's Best Guess Chart with respect to your cya level and let the pump run for, at least 4 more hours.
OK, chems are set and ready for the winter, and the pool is clean. Now it's time to dump some water (actually, with your in floor system, the water could be lowered first, then the chem adjustments). When I worked in Richmond Va, we would take the water below the returns, up in Ct, we only lower it below the skimmer (s). As you can reasonably expect to get the 'tag' end of a hurricane, if not the full force of one, where you are, I'd say to lower the water 2' below the coping, as you have a mesh cover that will allow the pool to refill over the winter.
The next thing is line protection, gotta keep those pipes from bursting! The way to do this is to evacuate the water from the lines (and, if possible add antifreeze, propoline glycol). To get the water out of the pipes, you can either use a shop vac to suck the water out of the above 'water line' pipes, or put it in reverse (ie blow) the water out of them. once a line is empty of water add antifreeze and plug the line, so no water can enter it when the water level rises. For the skimmers, I'd get a Gizzmo, which screws into the suction port and will 'absorb' any ice expansion which may occur.
The main drain and floor returns should be blown out, force air backwards through the pipe from the filter system, until they bubble - and then slam the valve shut. With your in floor system, remove the actuator valve assembly (the top with all the working parts) and blow each port individually, quickly plugging each port after it's heads bubble ( this keeps the water in the pipes below the frost line, thereby protecting them).
I know that 'down South' a lot of people don't take their equipment inside for the winter, but if you can, do it - it'll save a little wear and tear on it. Be sure to give the carts a good cleaning (there are posts here on how to properly clean a filter).
Now just throw the cover on (advice available if you start a new post)
As you have a 'safety cover', it's simplicity itself to check the water (test) occasionally, and add a little bleach when the cl levels get low (the down side of mesh covers is that they will allow an algae bloom, if the water is not tested and treated on a regular basis - the up side is that it's easy to pull back a corner and check the water and dose as needed).
I hope that this at least gives you a starting point, and let's you save some $ by doing the closing yourself - if you need any more info, feel free to ask! Again, welcome to the forum, you made a great choice by comming here and taking control of your pool! - Waste
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