Quote Originally Posted by aswetich View Post
I have had the pool a couple of years now and last year was the 1st time I winterized it myself because the pool installer disappeared ! My 1st year winterizing just duplicated what the installer did but it did not seem to give complete protection. (Was lucky last year in my opinion) You response shows knowledge of the issues involved and I appreate the detailed help. Now for the additional questions:

1. My spa jets get removed by pushing a tab towards the center and then pulling the whole assembly out. You can't screw a plug in so I am assumming the # 11 Plugs are the rubber with wing nuts to expand.
2.When the spa was installed they screwed something up with the "Fill Fitting" by the steps and installed a fitting in it's place that is non adjustable that just rotates around by itself. Is there supposed to be a special fitting there ? I am unsure how this one comes out ...
3.I use a compressor fitting on the pump filter drain. What psi should I be using ?
4. If I refill the tub do I need to put anything in it like the skimmer to prevent cracking or is the area large enough to prevent it by itself?
5. Is RV anti freeze the dsame as Pool antifreeze ? I notice a big differance in price ...

Thansk again !!
No problem, I'm more than willing to share my experience with the members of the forum!
#1 - you've got the spa I'm most familiar with (the one I was refering to in my earlier post). I know the tabs you're talking about and yes, pull the whole thing out by GENTLY!!! pulling the tab out - they have a tendency to break off if pulled too hard or too far. The first thing to do is work the outer ring from on to off to on a few times (grit can get in them and will frustrate your attempts to remove them, if you don't 'loosen' them first), it's about 1/4 turn each way. If one just won't come out after doing this, take a step back and get a thin 'flathead' (-) screwdriver and wedge it in all the way between tab and ring and gently pry on the tab while pulling the jet out. Yes, the plugs are rubber(?) and have 2 washers, a bolt and wingnut (#11 is what you want and don't push them in past the 'valley' or they'll be a PITA to get back out.)
#2 - This is the tough one, (BTW, THANKS!! for the pics, I've never seen one of those before and therefore don't know how it works) It looks like you may be able to get some torque on it with a screwdriver through the outlet, but I doubt it would work, but still worth a try. They make very small expandable plugs one of which would probably seal the inlet, that's the best bet. As a last resort I would heat up the 'nose' of a pair of needle-nose pliers and melt a couple of 'torque points' in the securing ring (I'd go easy on the ring and not let them be too deep), splash some water on them to cool and stop the melting and use the pliers to unscrew the ring. This s*cks astheticly, but is better than having a leaking line (from freeze damage) in a spa embedded in a concrete deck! (If you're handy, a couple of 'finish nails' in a block of wood (2X4 end) and matching drilled dimples in the ring could do the job).
#3 - The psi depends on how much water you need to evacuate. I'd set it at ~15 - 20 and see if that's enough to get all the water to bubble out of the lines, when you do it with the inlets/ outlets 'dry' (as opposed to under water) the lines clear much more easily.
#4 - we never have and haven't had a problem, in 4 years of installing these. I think the walls are sturdy enough to take the ice expansion, but if you want to play it safe, you can ~12 fill empty 1 gal bottles (like bleach comes in, you probably have a few floating around ) with sand or gravel and string them across the spa (ok, time for some detail - midnight won't be here for 4 hours - 1/2 filled jugs will still remain ~1/2 way out of the water, empty ones would just float on top. keeping the empty part of the jugs at water level is what will give you the 'crush protection' from the ice. To string them, take a 10' length of rope (laundry line is a great size) and feed it through each of the bottles handles and back through again [a full circle of rope on each handle] without tying a knot in it - the bottle will be able to move but is secured. Then you need to secure the ends of the rope so that the bottles 'float' in the middle of the tub 1 - 2' apart - you can just wrap the ends of the rope around a cinderblock a couple of times to keep them in place or tie them to something convenient. This method was old when pools were young but the waaayy "old schoolers' still use it)
# 5 - Pool antifreeze is 'propolyne glycol', as long as that's what the bottle of RV antifreeze says, it's the same (I've seen some posts about it and am fairly sure they are the same thing).
Good luck with your closing, have a great winter and if you ever need help with the pool or spa - ask away!!