15,000 gallon IG free form 16x32 w/attached IG 6x7 spa. Aquapure SWG, Jandy Aqualink 4 w/ PDA, Paramount infloor cleaning system, Starite 400K propane heater, Starite system 3 filter, Starite 2hp pump, polaris D'Light LED pool and spa light and paver decking. Completed in 11 weeks 7/4/06.
Solar should not get so hot that you can't use flex, BUT, there is no way you can tie that into your normal pump system, you would have to have a separate return to the pool (I think Poconos does it this way, he has a return running on the deck under his diving board just for solar - excuse me in advance if I'm wrong! Someone is doing it this way). Generally, an efficient solar system will return water that is no more than 5 degrees or so above the current pool temp.
I use separate returns for my solar panels. In fact I have mine as two independent systems, each with its own return.
Carl
That's me...separate return hoses dumping into the deep end and running under the diving board to keep them out of the way. I tie a bleach bottle loaded with sand to the ends to keep the hose ends deep.
Al
Here is a link that has all the unbiased information you need to make a good decision. It is the Florida State University of Central Florida .
http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/solar/instal...t/poolinst.htm
It has sections for other solar applications as well as pools.
I find the navigation around the site very UN-intuititve. You'll have to work at finding the good stuff.
For example you'll need to do a lot of mining to find this page,
http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/solar/testce.../tprpoolap.htm
which is half of the efficiency testing of panels for pools, this is makers A to P. Q to Z is nearby. ( they do have another for domestic hot water heaters )
The rule of thumb seems to be
1) the cheapest panels have the least amount of plastic and are the least durable and the poorest investment
2) they ( the cheapest) seem to rate pretty high on the efficiency test because they have thin walls, but are again not the best investment.
I selected Techno-solis using this guide. Our home lot is on a hill with the pool just about at the top, so a south facing slope became a great site for the panels. They are literally just thrown on the ground and connected to the plumbing. The dogs chase the rabbits across them. I walk on them. Snow sits on them all winter. Absolutely no problems.
Anyway, read up and you'll make get what you need.
Last edited by brent.roberts; 10-05-2006 at 07:27 AM.
Thanks TP and Brent. Are you saying you can't tie the solar output into the return line to the pool? Surely it's done all the time, right? Isn't that what the T and 3-way valves shown in the 'easy installation' guides show? What am I missing? Hope to have a lot done by tomorrow on my setup. I'll post pics and obviously, data. Output temp, pool temp..etc. Thanks for all the ideas and links.
It all depends on the type of panels and tubing. AG pools use the spiral flex type hose (looks like a vacuum cleaner hose or an IG vacuum hose) all the time. These are rated for fairly low pressure (they are generally joined by metal band clamps).
What I was saying is that if you have that type of return hose on the panels, you cannot join that to a permanent return that uses schedule 40 or flex PVC because the pressure will blow that line up. If you use that type of panel, just make sure the return goes directly to the pool (for an IG). For AG, you can T it in to the return (you will need the special barb type fittings)
For IG installations, the source and return lines for the panels are pressure rated, just like the rest of the plumbing. They need to be able to handle the 30+ psi that an IG pool pump will product. As in my case, the solar is pumped in AFTER the filter, but before my SWG (you want clean water, but not high chlorine). Hope this helps.
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