Help! Big Time!

[ChuckD]

First you need a test kit that will give you results for high levels of chlorine (up to 25 or so) since that's how you'll clean up the algae. The FAS-DPD test is the best. It's included in Ben's great test kit, but I hesitate to recommend it right now. He's having some trouble getting them out. No test strips allowed tho. They aren't reliable.

Get a decent kit and get your circulation going, read, read, read and give us some numbers, then we can talk about what you need to do. Also we need to know what kind/size is your pool and what kind of filter.

C.

[PoolKid]

My Pools Not a big pool, Its above ground, and is just 18 ft by 4 ft

My filter pumps about 2000 gals,

It's not that big, thats why i dont really want to spend so much $$ on a test kit for a small pool like that.

As you said test strips are unreliable, but thats only what i have now, and it reads nothing when i stuck it in,

[ChuckD]

My Pools Not a big pool, Its above ground, and is just 18 ft by 4 ft

My filter pumps about 2000 gals,

It's not that big, thats why i dont really want to spend so much $$ on a test kit for a small pool like that.

As you said test strips are unreliable, but thats only what i have now, and it reads nothing when i stuck it in,

There are pools here much smaller than yours. A test kit is key to keeping your water clean and clear, consider it an investment. And if you can't provide accurate numbers, there isn't a whole lot anyone can do to help, eh?

You've got the same concerns as someone with a 50K inground, just on a smaller scale.

Some suggestions (from Leslie's Pools who I'm not endorsing, no connection to them, just for reference):

- FAS-DPD test kit (you'll use this a lot) #18546
- http://www.poolsupplies.com has a kit called a "7 Way" (#107770) for $20 that looks like it'll pick up the other stuff you need to test for.

In order to get ***istance here you'll need to be able to provide levels for free chlorine, combined chlorimines, pH, total alkalinity and cyanuric acid (CYA). Also important is knowing if your filter is a sand, cartridge or diatomaceous earth (DE) medium.

Last thing I would strongly suggest: once you start this process, and if you're getting help here, don't veer off and start adding stuff based on a pool store's advice (or other 'helpful' types). I've seen many who come here to get advice, they're sent away to do one thing and they come back and said something like 'so my neighbor two doors down said I should add 20 pounds of ACME PeeClear so I did, or worse (and this really happens) they say they stopped at a local Pool store and returned with $150 chemicals and dumped them in. We advocate a very simple, cheap, healthy process that doesn't have much to do with the profits of pool stores and it's really important not to deviate from it.

So, that said, once you get your pump and filter up and running, and barring any unforseen issues, you should have clear water in 3 to 5 days. Personally, I wouldn't do anything with the pool until you can get the filter working. IMO, circulation goes hand in hand with dosing it with chemicals.

Also, don't know where you are but it sounds like you're getting ready to close for the winter. I still think it's worth it to go thru the process for a month or so to get to know it. Then when spring comes around you'll have a leg up on how it works and the learning curve will be easier.

HTH,

Chuck

[PoolKid]

Hey Chuck, Thanks for all the info.

Is there any place i can get that filter, in the NC salisbury area?

I have a pool suppy store buy the only water kit they got is BioGuard OTO/pH Test Kit.

Would that be good enought to test my pool with?

Thanks again

[Simmons99]

The OTO test kit only tests chlorine levels up to 5ppm (or worse sometimes 3ppm). The best is the one that Chuck listed with the link to the Internet site. If you cannot wait - yes you can get the OTO kit, but you will need to also purchase DISTILLED water (from the grocery store)

When you test - you will take one part pool water with 3 parts DISTILLED water - then test - then multiply your results by 4. THIS IS NOT THE MOST ACCURATE WAY - but it might get you by until you can get a FAS-DPD test kit like Chuck listed.

[doggie]

Does anyone know for sure what the kit Chuck posted about tests? It says 7 way, but lists FC, Alk, CYA, PH and Calcium Hardness. I'm curious what the other 2 things are.

[ChuckD]

What Simmons99 said and...

The reason you need the FAS-DPD test is:

1. because you will initially need to 'shock' your pool, or super-chlorinate, your water to kill the algae. This means over chlorinating to some high level, and keeping that level for a couple days. That level depends on how much water you have in your pool and the amount of CYA that may be present. CYA (cyanuric acid or stabilizer) acts to lock up the chlorine so it doesn't burn off so fast. Shock levels of chlorine can't be measured accurately with the OTO you mention.

2. FAS-DPD will give you the two components of you need to know about, 'free chlorine' (FC) and 'combined chlorimines' (CC). The OTO kit will only give you the FC but you also need to know CC as this tells you if your chlorine is actually killing something (if there's still algae present).

After the shock phase is complete and your water's clear (usually 3 to 5 days), you'll let your chlorine level drop to swimmable levels and only need to add some bleach once or twice a week to maintain.

Get Mike Smith's BleachCalc program to help you with calculations (it's free and no installation necessary):
http://home.earthlink.net/~mwsmith70/data/BleachCalc262.exe


Since your pump/filter aren't due till Friday, why not mail order the test kit(s)? Believe me it'll be worth it and make helping you much easier.

(edit: Do Not add any of those chems you list in another post here. especially the chlorine tabs. They contain CYA, AKA stabilizer. CYA is good and necessary, but once it's there, it ain't easy to get out so if you overdo it, you end up having to dump some of your pool water and refilling to dilute it. And since the more CYA in your water, the more chlorine you need to add, you want to have some control (by testing) over how much you CYA you add. We can figure this all out once we know what the present condition of your water is)

C.

[PoolKid]

Okay, well i never ever spent $20 on water testing kit,

But i guess i have to, question how long dose this kit last?

another question how much is it going to cost to get the pool clean after i get the kit? i have no shock or anything just chlorine tabs, i cant get shock anywhere cause they charge to much at the pool store for it and my pool has a liner in it and looks like this pool http://aaabestbuy.com/ebay/pools/56951_large.jpg . give an estamite price .

I am talking about the 7 way test kit.

[PoolKid]

YES WALMART! i found a cheap OTO test kit that test the Cl,
So how do i uses this? i bought some dilleted water also,

I dont get thet mix 3 parts with 1 part thing, i dont know what parts are Lol

Any help plz befor i start adding bleach

Edited:

OHHHH dose it mean a shot glass like the shot glass you drink out of?

Just get one of those and get pool water and than another with dilleted water or w/e and mix in like a cup or something and test?

[PoolKid]

I dumped 3 Bottels in, and It started to clear RIGHT AWAY! i can start seeing the sides and the bottom! when should the i should put more in? or when should i test it? and how to test it ^^