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Thread: Where to start?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Orland Park, Il (near Chicago)
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    Default Re: Where to start?

    Just curious if you can accomplish the shot gun method by reducing the number of test drops required i.e. for FC my test kit tells me to add 5 drops. What if I only add 1 or 2 drops and multiply accordingly? If this method works it eliminates a step (adding distilled water) and saves on testing liquids.

  2. #2
    Steve #1 is offline ** No working email address ** Steve #1 0
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    Default Re: Where to start?

    Well, knarf, sounded like a good enough idea to me so I gave it a shot to see what happened. Used 1 drop instead of 5 and it was darker than 5 which would put me at 25 so I'm probably at about 30....... or this method doesn't work.

  3. #3
    keithw is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst keithw 0
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    Default Re: Where to start?

    Doesn't work. You have to dilute the water with distilled water. But loses accuracy. Better to get a DPD-FAS test kit that test higher than 5PPM.

  4. #4
    Steve #1 is offline ** No working email address ** Steve #1 0
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    Default Re: Where to start?

    Thanks for the buzz kill keithw.

    It appears that the high CYA is the root of my problem and from what I understand, the only way to lower it is to replace the water. With the level of CYA, about how much water am I looking at replacing to get to a more manageable level? I'm guessing this would also help the Harness level?

    With this in mind, anyone know the effects of pool water on grass? We're under mandatory water rationing here and it's a $1500 fine if you water your yard any time other than your 12 hours a week you are allowed however usage for pool maintenance is allowed. I could kill two birds with one stone if it wouldn't have ill effects on my sun baked grass.

    ...... and thanks for all the help so far.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Where to start?

    Where do you live? Is there a concern with the water table in your area? Given the drought conditions I'd doubt it but it's something to think about so your pool does not heave when empty. Mine sat empty for 3 months here in Az and not even a crack ... If your water is not real salty it may not be a problem on the grass. What kind of grass?


    Sounds like the water has been in the pool for a long time.. A drain and refill never hurts in that situation.
    14'x31' kidney 21K gal IG plaster pool; SWCG (Saline Generating System's SGS Breeze); Pentair FNS Plus 48 DE DE filter; Whisperflow 1 HP pump; 8 hours hrs; kit purchased from Ben; utility water; summer: none; winter: none; PF:5.7

  6. #6
    Steve #1 is offline ** No working email address ** Steve #1 0
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    Default Re: Where to start?

    I'm in north Texas (Dallas). The only concern with the water table is the lack of one. How do I know if the water is salty? The grass is St Augustine so it is pretty sturdy except that it is dry now.

  7. #7
    keithw is offline Registered+ Thread Analyst keithw 0
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    Default Re: Where to start?

    First you need to get an accurate CYA. The looking at this thread, you say it's "halfway to the scale that starts at 100." The test strip is pretty unreliable so I discount that. Done it small batches the water shouldn't mess up the lawn. I've done partial drains without problem. I too had a high CYA, right around 100. I am letting evaporation and splashy kids lower mine steadily and slowly. I just chlorinate up to 8PPM at night and let it work down to 5PPM and then move it back up to 8.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Where to start?

    Get a water sample at a pool store and then go ask a nursery
    Last edited by Phillbo; 08-23-2006 at 06:06 PM.
    14'x31' kidney 21K gal IG plaster pool; SWCG (Saline Generating System's SGS Breeze); Pentair FNS Plus 48 DE DE filter; Whisperflow 1 HP pump; 8 hours hrs; kit purchased from Ben; utility water; summer: none; winter: none; PF:5.7

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