Foam bottom and Cove

[hrsdennis]

Hi Cliff, this can be done either way. The cove with the sticky back is ideal for installing on top of the foam. If you have the type that snaps into the bottom rail you should do the cove and then miter the foam cut. Duct tape will help to blend the transition.

It works well either way. Best of luck, Dennis

[CliffTex]

Dennis,

Do you think that the single 3/4" layer on top of the granite is good or should I double up? Here in Central Texas you cannot find the thicker foam.

Cliff

[Getgo]

Hi Cliff, this can be done either way. The cove with the sticky back is ideal for installing on top of the foam. If you have the type that snaps into the bottom rail you should do the cove and then miter the foam cut. Duct tape will help to blend the transition.

It works well either way. Best of luck, Dennis

I would only recommend the cove on top of the foam option. With the other method its possible the two would seperate and produce a gap.

I would not use less than 1 inch foam. The compressive strength (25psi) is greatly reduced in the 3/4 inch thickness...

From the Getgo

[matt4x4]

I believe if you use the original cove as perscribed and taper the foam board against/overtop, and do two layers, you end up with your cove burried or partially burried and not doing what it's supposed to do.
Since you have a granite base with irregularities, unless i see it, I'm guessing, but what it boils down to is:
Will one layer of board burry everything that could possibly damage the liner sufficiently enough that it will not poke through? If yes, use one layer, if no, use two.
Any which way - put the cove on top of the foam board, if you go underneath, like stated in posts above, a gap could develop and the cove is supposed to cover/seal any gap potential. does the cove just have a slit on the back for cliping purposes, if so, I think you can still use it successfully.

[CliffTex]

The cove I have has the plastic ridge that is glued to the foam which slips into the track next to the wall. I will just put some 2 sided tape on the back of the plastic so it sticks to the wall on top of the foam.

Thanks for all the input. It is nice to see a community that has so much knowledge and many ideas. I'll let ya'll know how the installation comes out in a couple of weeks.

Cliff

[hrsdennis]

I hate being the odd man out here. Can I try again?

I am afraid that putting tape on the back of the plastic meant to be inserted into the bottom track would 1. leave a gap at the top or bottom of the cove 2. the plastic would make it difficult to work with and the tape would never hold it in place.

You might consider these options. Exchange the cove for the type with the sticky back. They have a peel off strip just like double sided tape, but this stuff is real sticky. This type of cove is easy to work with also.

Is it possible to remove the plastic from the back of the cove before you install the tape? The cove that is made of styrafoam with the plastic glued on should adapt well to this. The hard molded plastic cove may not.

Just a couple more ideas, Dennis

[CliffTex]

I'll see if I can exchange the foam as it is hard to work with.

Thanks again,
Cliff

[matt4x4]

Well, if youy can't exchange it, pick up a box of exacto blades at the buck store and just cut off the plastic strip - should go relatively easy, the foam will dull the blade quickly, that's why I suggested a box....

[CliffTex]

Well,

After many hard hours of back breaking labor, the pool is done. We ended up using 2 layers of th 1/2" pink foam and putting the stick on cove on top of the foam. The feel of pools bottom is unique and very pleasing. Kinda firm and kinda bouncy. It was a little more expensive but in the end well worth it. Thanks again for all your help.