I forgot. I do have a niche light (wet) and it is connected to the same bonding loop around the pool, so the pool water is electrically connected to the bond wire.
I forgot. I do have a niche light (wet) and it is connected to the same bonding loop around the pool, so the pool water is electrically connected to the bond wire.
40,000 gal. DIY IG vinyl pool, Zodiac SWG, sand filter w/ Zeobrite, 3 Aqua Genie skimmers, 2 HP pump, pavers
From everything you have posted, it sounds as though the bonding wire has a potential difference from true ground and your pavers are not bonded. From your first post, I assume your know how to use a volt meter so do you think you know how measure the voltage between your house neutral and ground? This can be dangerous if you do not know what you are doing so please be very careful. But this can confirm the power companies contention that ground and neutral are fine. There should not be more than 0.5 vac between ground and neutral in the house. I just measured my and it is less than 40 millivolts. [TYPO]
Again, if you do not feel comfortable doing this test, then please don't. But if you do then you can do this measurement at the house breaker box or at an outlet. Newer outlets use the larger of the two long slots for neutral and the center round prong is ground. Rember that the short slot is hot.
If your ground and neutral are ok, then the power company was correct and something must be wrong with the pool ground. You can then repeat the test at the pool breaker box and see if those ground and neutrals are ok.
If those are ok then the soil around the pool must be at different potential then the bonding wire meaning the problem could be in the well as John suggested or another underground wire.
Last edited by mas985; 08-25-2006 at 12:55 PM.
Mark
Hydraulics 101; Pump Ed 101; Pump/Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Run Time Study; DIY Acid Dosing; DIY Cover Roller
18'x36' 20k plaster, MaxFlo SP2303VSP, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge, Solar, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater
(deep breath) At the risk of starting the brouhaha all over again....(and I SWORE I wasn't going to get back into this, dang it) Cliff said that when he lifted the ground wire from the pump motor, the shock went away, right?
Why not TRY a ground wire to an 8 foot copper stake (pounded into the ground) that's connected to the same lug on the pump motor? Or am I missing something? The worst case scenario is that he'd have a better ground and a starting point to measure voltage if it doesn't solve the problem.
Also, you probably can't feel a shock (and this from someone who's been shocked more times and ways than a porn star's grandma) from a 4.5 vac, 40ma "leak". It's probably much higher than this, but can't be displayed on the meter because it's too cheap, or the "ballistics" too slow (digital), or the sample rate too slow, or it's autoranging and doesn't "see" the peaks, or all of these.....SO BE CAREFUL
On a lighter note, I think I found what my pool's electrical contractor does in his spare time:
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/liv...n_page_id=1770
STS
STS,
I agree that will probably solve getting shocked at the pool but he should really find out the cause of the problem to make sure it is not a symptom of something more serious.
Mark
Hydraulics 101; Pump Ed 101; Pump/Pool Spreadsheets; Pump Run Time Study; DIY Acid Dosing; DIY Cover Roller
18'x36' 20k plaster, MaxFlo SP2303VSP, Aqualogic PS8 SWCG, 420 sq-ft Cartridge, Solar, 6 jet spa, 1 HP jet pump, 400k BTU NG Heater
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/liv...n_page_id=1770
What an IDIOT!!!
See ya,
Kelly
Cliff,
Did you finally find a solution to the electrical issue?
I hate not knowing how a story ends !!
-
Bookmarks