Converting to BBB

[knarf#2]

I have a 15,000 AG and here are my test results from today. Probably should get the PH down a bit. How much M. Acid should I use? Anything else?
PH 7.8
TC 15
FC 15
TA 180
CYA 100

Thanks in advance

[Sully]

I have a 15,000 AG and here are my test results from today. Probably should get the PH down a bit. How much M. Acid should I use? Anything else?
PH 7.8
TC 15
FC 15
TA 180
CYA 100

Thanks in advance

Has your pool cleared? I wouldn't worry too much about ph, until your pool cleared up and stablized. But 1 cup of acid would bring it down a bit.

[knarf#2]

I'm definetely seeing improvements but it has not cleared as of yet.

Thanks

[chem geek]

I have a 15,000 AG and here are my test results from today. Probably should get the PH down a bit. How much M. Acid should I use? Anything else?
PH 7.8
TC 15
FC 15
TA 180
CYA 100

Thanks in advance

As Sully said, until your pool clears that should be your main focus. I didn't realize you had an algae problem and if you do, then you aren't at the shock levels according to Ben's Table which says you should maintain 25 ppm FC when your CYA is 100 (in fact, you may need even more, but at least get to 25). So first get your chlorine up and that should get you to clear faster.

Nevertheless, with your numbers, to get the pH down to 7.5 you need to add 27 fluid ounces (3 cups, 3 ounces) of Muriatic Acid. However, your TA and CYA are both quite high and at some point you should do a partial drain and refill which will lower TA and CYA (and FC, TC, CH). Again, you can do this after you pool clears.

Do you know why your TA is high? Is your refill water high in TA (you can test it if you don't know)? The high TA will cause your pool to outgas carbon dioxide at a more rapid rate and that makes the pH rise. Essentially, your pool is over-carbonated. After you solve your algae problem, you should first do the partial drain and refill to lower both TA and CYA. You should try and get your CYA down to no higher than 50. If after the partial drain and refill your TA is not down to 100, then follow Ben's Procedure for lowering TA. You can see from the following chart that you can't simultaneously maintain lower pH and high TA -- the pH will tend to rise as long as your pool is exposed to air (i.e. not covered). Increased aeration (splashing, wind, bubbles, etc.) make the pH go up faster.

Richard

[knarf#2]

When I returned from vacation to a green pool the first thing I did (being a newbie) was go to the pool store (in fact I went to 3 different stores and got 3 different opinions/advise). One of the stores told me that my TA was low so he sold us on some powder ( I can't remember what it was called or what was in it) and to be honest I can't even remember why he suggested this but being a newbie I just followed their advise blindly. Thats why my TA is high. By the way I don't know if this had any effect on TA but I also added A product called Bannish which is suppossed to be an algae destroyer and few days later I added a product called Green to Clean (more pool store advise). My pool went from dark green 2 1/2 weeks ago to light blueish today. After this very frustrating experience I decided to educate myself (thanks to you guys and this forum) and rid myself of relying on pool stores for my water management.

Thanks Again