Thanx again Tenax! I was already to cut tonight, then figured I would ask first. Don't want to spend twice the time or money.
Thanx again Tenax! I was already to cut tonight, then figured I would ask first. Don't want to spend twice the time or money.
27K IG Gunite
1.5 hp pentair whisperflo
Hayward Micron DE filter
I should know, but I don't. What is that device that is connected with the two small, black hoses? That reduction in pipe size where the two black hoses connect to the PVC is a serious restriction to your flow. I would eliminate that restriction....you'll see a very significant increase in the efficiency of your system.
Assuming that's an inline chlorinator, you could eliminate it if you don't use it and really clean up your pump pad...two simple unions for future pump removal is all you'd need.
Additionally, you could eliminate all of that patchwork and that repair union by cutting off the return line down in the ground below that 90 that's flush to the ground and extend that pipe up over the top of the suction line going into the pump.
Working with PVC is a lot like tinker toys.....you can make about anything you want. dry fit the whole assembly before you glue. Many folks use simple rubber couplings with hose clamps to allow for future pump removal.....I like the pvc unions.....they're a little more trouble and money but very professional looking.
Last edited by duraleigh; 08-12-2006 at 07:13 AM.
Instead of unions I use sections of straight auto radiator hose and clamps. Stuff it reinforced to handle the pressure and temperature is not an issue. An added benefit is it allows the joints to move a little thus reducing stress on the pipes and joints and cuts noise by isolating the pump noise somewhat. You can make the sections as long or short as you want. If you make them real short the hose tends to stick to the pipe after time and can be a little difficult to remove. To 'crack' the hose loose I use a big pair of channel lock pliers for a better grip to twist the hose. Once loose it will slide on the pipe for removal. The pic shows joints for the valve but I have them on the pump ins and outs too. Hose can be kind of pricey but the cheapest stuff you can find will work fine. Compared to the underhood environment this application is nothing and the cheapest stuff holds up extremely well. If I recall, you can expect to pay about $20 for a 3' section.
Al
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/attachm...5&d=1144256085
Last edited by Poconos; 08-12-2006 at 08:49 AM.
Thanks for all the help everybody. Poconos, I was already half way through by the time I read your message, but that's an excellent Idea and would have went that way if I'd read it earlier. So the pump side is drying now, just have to make a couple fixes on the return and I'll be done.
How long does it take for that pvc cement to dry?
Thanks everybody.
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27K IG Gunite
1.5 hp pentair whisperflo
Hayward Micron DE filter
Keep an eye on the 3 new 90s on the pump side. Those are DWV couplings, they do not handle pressure to well. Look at the difference of the new 90s and the old 90s on discharge from filter.
Crank it and check for leaks, it should be good to go by now.
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